New-wood dominates this wine, with a very toasty quality, a seemingly sweet vanilla flavor and a touch of pepper from the alcohol. The black fruits are still burried under the wood character, although the fruits' weight suggests they will broaden out with time. Give this powerful effort at least four years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.