Castelão thrives in the sandy soils of the Palmela appellation. This reserve wine from 60-year-old vines with 12 months in wood is a rich, structured example. It's full bodied and ripe, packed with black plum fruit and acidity. Still young, it's ready to drink but will be better from 2018.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.