This richly structured wine comes from the the state-owned Companhia das Lezirias, the largest estate in Portugal. With equestrian events, wine, olive oil and an ecological sanctuary just east of Lisbon, the property merits a visit. Named for the barn owl that nests in estate forests, the wine is opulent, dense and packed with tannins and ripe black fruits. Give it time, at least until late 2018.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.