Here is a contradiction that works, a wine that is both rich and delicate. The light, dancing touch of the Riesling is fleshed out with delicious perfumed acidity, but always the crispness and flavors of white currants are here.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.