Wirra Wirra 2017 Vintage Bell Cabernet Sauvignon (McLaren Vale)

This premium McLaren Vale Cab offers a pleasing combo of varietal notes like pencil lead, blackberry, currant and eucalyptus, with an underlying cola-oak character. The oak becomes more prominent as it warms in the glass, and it particularly shows on the palate, where tannins feel barrel-derived, drying and rasping. Without fleshy fruit to hold it up, it comes off, for now anyway, as a lean, mean oak machine. With time, it should soften into the wine. Hopefully there will be enough fruit and texture to withstand the test of time. Drink 2022–2030. Christina Pickard