Wiston Estate Winery 2010 Blanc de Noirs Pinot Noir (England)

There is immense restraint and subtlety on the wine's nose. It takes a while for a distinct hint of smoke and rich creaminess to appear that then seems to expand into chalky richness and a salty, sea-breeze distance. The palate seems resolved, putting up a front of creamy, rich and rounded aromas with every tiny pinprick bubble, as if guarding the essential, eternal core of pristine freshness. Smoke and red apple dimensions play on a more distant loop, echoing from afar. This is gorgeous, profound, light and impressive, bordering on the metaphysical. Anne Krebiehl MW