Y Rousseau 2015 Old Vines Colombard (Russian River Valley)

This producer remains committed to showcasing this rare variety, making this 100% version of it from 40-plus-year-old dry-farmed vines. He lets the grapes hang out sur lie for five months in mostly stainless steel, with a small amount of neutral French oak. The result presents as full bodied, though the ripeness is restrained, a celebration of apple, vanilla, spicy lemongrass and robust minerality. Virginie Boone

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