They say the vines date to 1889. The color is inky black. The aromas are impressive and promising. White chocolate, blackberry, cassis, licorice and white pepper begin to describe them. It's a hugely extracted wine, packed with berry flavors, very dry, with substantial tannins. It's far too big to describe as elegant—rustic does it more justice. The winemaker suggests aging until 2006. He may be short of the mark.