Yangarra 2020 Ovitelli Blanc White (McLaren Vale)

A newly released premium blend of the Rhône varieties about which winemaker Pete Fraser is so passionate, this is a complex and utterly delicious bottling that changes over days and open in bottle. Subtle peach, waxy lemon and white-flower blossom ride a wave of raw, saline minerality. The texture is like concrete and skins, the flavor delicate but persistent to the salt-flecked finish. There's potential here for outstanding bottle age over the next five to seven years, but this is also a highly food-friendly drop now. Christina Pickard