Partly fermented in wood, this smooth, unctuous Champagne is at the same time delicately dry and lined with acidity. With its steely overtones, it's still a young Champagne, needing time to smooth out the sharp, youthful edges. Give it at least five years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.