50 Best Restaurants in America 2022

Buzzwords like “local,” “seasonal” and “farm-to-table” usually fail to acknowledge the way that culinary traditions are affected by systemic societal issues. Bulrush’s exploration of Ozark cuisine past and present includes contributions from its indigenous and enslaved colonial populations, informed by constant research. Even the wines offered with the seven-course tasting menu highlight Missouri’s role to help save the French wine industry from phylloxera in the 1870s. Financial transparency, zero waste and an extensive yet ethical foraging program round out the experience.