When the chef is also the sommelier, you know that the pairings will be perfection. Peruse the epic bottle list, which has some terrific values. Dinner is your choice of seven- or 12-course tasting menus that change often. The chef’s counter is 12-course only, and a lot of fun. Recent tasting menu dishes included tamarind-glazed quail with strawberry-shoyu polenta and pickled local veggies, and black cod with garlic-kumquat purée and puffed capers. Chris Barnum-Dann’s monthly wine club comes with access to YouTube videos where he discusses the picks and their ideal pairings.