This cozy, hearth-based restaurant in an old blacksmith’s shop has been very influential in upstate New York, where thoughtfully farmed ingredients and wines that follow eco-conscious philosophies are increasingly the norm. A recent transition to à la carte dining has further amped up the conviviality factor.

From the Sommelier: “People have become so open-minded about food and wine! Our guests this season have been coming in with a really strong spirit of discovery, willing and eager to try types of wine they’ve never had before or pairings that may sound unusual. This gets me so excited to connect with them, gain their trust, and hopefully to witness the moment when someone discovers a new thing to love. On a less philosophical note: Assyrtiko. Domaine Economou’s slightly oxidative Cretan version is so complex and balanced, with both a richness and singing acidity that are marvelous with our food. I’ve been selling it like crazy.” —Lila Holland, Fish & Game

Dish We Loved: Beet ravioli, two-year-aged butter, horseradish, chicories

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