America's 100 Best Wine Restaurants of 2019
This new Denver spot puts an exciting spin on traditional French cuisine (foie gras terrine is paired with whey caramel; a lamb tartare comes with lime yogurt and smoked egg yolk). The wine list features mostly smaller natural winemakers, with symbols for qualities like “gulpable,” “crystalline,” “benchmark” and “the funk.”
From The Sommelier: “I believe wines are a conversation; with yourself, with others. Sometimes it’s a lighthearted banter – not much to think about but still very pleasing. And other times the conversation challenges us and what we think we already know. A wine like this can shake us to our core. It can make us question our very existence, where we fit in, what it all means, and how it is lightning came to be trapped in a bottle. This is the beauty of wines that are alive, and why these living wines are my focus. We can presume to know which bottle will be which type, but are nonetheless at the will and mercy of destiny and we willingly put ourselves in her hands and accept what she will reveal. Wine is a living reminder that the past is not dead and its depth of influence inspires awe, as does its simplicity, and keeps us coming back for more.” —Mary Allison Wright, Morin
Dish We Loved: Scallop, Asian pear, yam blanquette, chamomile, kelp
