For many who grew up in the ’70s and ’80s, the first wine they experienced was German. Blue Nun, a mass-produced, sweet white liebfraumilch once dominated American store shelves. As a young adult, the first wine I ever purchased was a Zeller Schwarze Katz—a sweet, cheerful Riesling I bought because of its blue bottle and prominent black cat on the label.
These wines were consistent and easygoing building blocks for the American palate—and huge commercial successes. But with the evolution of taste preferences and the globalization of wine, the glory days of blue nuns and black cats have waned. German wines have increased in quality and the country’s winemakers now produce more diverse wine styles.
As this month’s Buying Guide shows, today’s landscape of German wines is vastly different. First, they’re not all sweet. German wines encompass the noblest classics—the fine, filigreed sweet Rieslings of the Mosel, but also the dry, powerfully structured Rieslings of Pfalz and Nahe. Second, they’re not all Riesling. Germany is the world’s third-largest producer of Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir, or Spätburgunder, has historically been so popular in Germany that little of it has made it to the U.S., but it’s now becoming increasingly available.
This month’s tastings also reflect a surge of high quality wines from Rheinhessen, a region that built its reputation on mass-produced value-priced wines. Increasingly known as a hotbed for young, ambitious wine-makers focused on small-volume, experimental winemaking, Rheinhessen is remaking its image.
Elsewhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, you’ll find reviews of recent releases from Northern Italy, as well as selections from across France and Portugal. In the New World, check out the latest reviews from Chile, California and Oregon. And, as always, be sure to check out our complete database, with thousands more reviews, at buyingguide.www.winemag.com!
—Anna Lee C. Iijima
[A view of the Rheingau]
93 August Kesseler 2012 Lorcher Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett Erste Lage (Rheingau). A musky, floral perfume melds with ripe white peach and a crush of stony mineral on this beautifully composed off-dry Riesling. The palate is lush, with juicy melon, peach and mango flavors, but balanced by a long, flinty finish. Drink now to maximize its ripe, perfumed exuberance. Vineyard Brands. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 12.5% Price: $36
93 Thörle 2012 Saulheimer Kalkstein Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen). Exuberant on the nose, with heady green-floral and tropical fruit notes, this powerful, structured Riesling packs a punch on the palate as well. While dry in style, the palate is saturated with white peach and blossom flavors that are juxtaposed against a mineral, steely backdrop. It finishes exceptionally long and elegant. Ingenium Wines. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $28
91 Domdechant Werner 2012 Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Trocken (Rheingau). Whiffs of spice, honeycomb and lanolin meld curiously on the nose of this intensely mineral Riesling. Dry in style, with pretty yellow-cherry flavor, it builds in concentration and complexity as shades of spice, rock and fruit amass against a backdrop of sunny tangerine acidity. Drink now. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 12.5% Price: $36
91 Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider 2012 Niersteiner Hipping vom Rottligenden Riesling Spätlese Trocken (Rheinhessen). Pretty floral and apricot aromas brighten savory apple notes on this dry, but intensely honeyed Riesling. Bright and brisk on the palate, with searing lime acidity, it finishes long, with a refreshing spray of green herbs. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 12.5% Price: $17
90 Prinz zu Salm-Dalberg’Sches Weingut Im Schloss Wallhausen 2012 Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen). Whiffs of freshly pressed apples are accented by pretty peach and honeysuckle notes on this dry, refreshing Riesling. The palate is lean in style, with subtle stone-fruit flavors that feel brisk and vivacious against a backdrop of pineapple acidity. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 12% Price: $30
91 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2012 Ayler Kupp Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). This dainty off-dry Riesling is marked by aromas—ripe stone fruit and florals against a backdrop of tea leaves and crushed minerals. On the palate, it’s intensely juicy, with flavors of orange, mango and peach, but with a streak of acidity that ripples the tongue. Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I.
abv: 8.5% Price: $23
91 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2012 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Smoke accents ripe yellow peaches on the nose of this intensely penetrating kabinett. The palate shocks with luscious mango and melon flavors, layered with bristling mineral accents. It finishes long, with a reverberating astringency. Saranty Imports. —A.I.
abv: 9% Price: $18
91 Dr. Loosen 2012 Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). This semisweet Riesling balances an intensely fruit-forward profile of ripe yellow cherry and quince flavors against a backdrop of crisp, tart tangerine acidity. It’s sunny and bright, yet elegantly composed, with a bristle of fresh herb notes that linger on the finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 8% Price: $22
91 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2012 Bernkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Opening with aromatic notes of smoke against a backdrop of stone fruit and apple blossoms, this is a racy little Riesling that packs a powerful punch of flavor. Delicately sweet, with a saturated palate of yellow cherry and quince, it’s smartly balanced by a sheen of minerals and brisk, bracing citrus acidity. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: NA Price: $26
91 Schloss Vollrads 2012 Medium Dry Riesling Kabinett (Rheingau). Lavish aromas of ripe peach, canteloupe and honeysuckle extend onto the palate of this juicy, fruit-forward Riesling. Semi-sweet in style, it’s one lipsmacking nectar, with bracing lime acidity on the finish. Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I.
abv: 11.5% Price: $25
90 August Kesseler 2012 R Riesling Kabinett (Pfalz). Deeply concentrated, with honeyed yellow-peach and tangerine flavors, this is a gorgeously composed wine, with just a hint of sweetness for balance. Notes of cherry blossom and crushed minerals add complexity and depth. It finishes long, with a delicate, lacy sweetness. Vineyard Brands. Editors’ Choice.—A.I.
abv: 11% Price: $18
90 Bollig-Lehnert 2012 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Refreshing aromas of tangerine and lime are laced with petrol on this steely kabinett. Waves of ripe peach and nectarine flavor add delicate sweetness on the palate, accented by savory notes of dried herb and tea leaves. Lemon-lime acidity leads the long finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 8% Price: $18
[Germany's Mosel River]
94 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) 2012 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Touches of fennel and saffron lend an earthy touch to this sweet, silky nectar of peach and marmalade. While lavishly glycerin on the tongue, the palate extends to a bristling lemon-lime finish. Penetratingly fruity, yet anchored with acidity and minerality, this is delicious now but has a bold future through the next decade. Winesellers Ltd. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 8% Price: $52
94 Egon Müller 2011 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Opening notes of smoke and dried herb blow off to reveal layers of ripe tangerine, honey, lemon and lime on this aromatic medium-sweet Riesling. The palate is lusciously fruity, with rich, ripe flavors of mango and peach, but cut by piercing citrus acidity that penetrates. The finish lingers on and on. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 8.5% Price: $480
93 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2012 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Initial aromas of smoke and earth blow off to show ripe, rich aromas of yellow cherries and nectarines on this powerful yet nuanced Riesling. It’s medium-sweet in style, with juicy, forward fruit balanced by minerality and a shock of acidity on the finish. It’s delicious now, but should reveal more of its honeyed, earthy complexities as it matures over the next 7–9 years. Saranty Imports. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 8% Price: $38
93 Dr. Loosen 2011 Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese Goldkapsule (Mosel). Waxy lemon rind and white floral notes are an elegant introduction to this gorgeously complex Riesling. The palate is delicately framed, yet deeply penetrating, with unctuous honey and citrus flavors laced with saffron and spice. Shrieking acidity shakes everything up and lingers long on the finish. Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 7.5% Price: $NA
93 Maximin Grünhäuser 2012 Herrenberg Riesling Auslese 24 (Mosel). While delicate in frame and aroma, this is a powerfully concentrated Riesling that’s chock full of marmalade and yellow peach flavors. Accents of honey, spice and saffron, along with searingly tart tangerine acidity, awaken the palate and linger languorously on the finish. Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 7% Price: $66/375 ml
93 Schloss Saarstein 2012 Serrig Schloss Saarsteiner Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Savory herb and smoke notes on the nose contrast this Riesling’s rich, unctuously fruity palate full of peach and apricot jam. Searing citrus acidity jolts the senses and highlights a long finish laced with honey and jasmine tea notes. Structured yet nuanced, this wine is delicious now, but should show even more complexity in a decade. Valckenberg International, Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 7.5% Price: $71
92 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2012 Bernkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Aeration peels away the layers of savory smoke that obscure layers of peach preserves, cherry blossoms and spice on this beautifully composed Riesling. Medium-sweet on the palate, with a honeyed richness that coats the tongue, it’s balanced by streaks of minerality and a bristling tea-leaf astringency on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: NA Price: $57
91 Bollig-Lehnert 2012 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese (Mosel). While remarkably lithe and delicate in style, this complex auslese is lusciously concentrated, with ripe peach and nectarine flavors balanced by hints of smoke, spice and musk. It’s zippy and bright, with tart tangerine acidity and a wave of minerality on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 7.5% Price: $23
90 Bollig-Lehnert 2012 Dhroner Hofberger Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Smoke, spice and earth notes mark this deeply mineral auslese, adding depth and complexity to the sunny palate and peach and apricot flavors. A beautifully executed calibration of savory and sweet, it finishes with a twang of struck steel and lime. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 8% Price: $23
90 Heinz Eifel 2012 Riesling Auslese (Mosel). A fantastic bargain at $14, this nuanced wine balances heady saffron and spice notes against a backdrop of ripe mango and yellow cherry flavors. It’s lavishly mineral on the midpalate, with striking lemon-lime acidity that drives an elegant, herb-accented finish. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 8% Price: $14
90 Leonard Kreusch 2012 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Musky floral, spice and cherry-blossom notes meld in the exuberant bouquet of this aromatic auslese. It’s blossomy on the palate as well, and luscious, with sweet peach and yellow cherry flavors. It’s unabashedly lavish, but balanced by a streak of citrus acidity and a long, lingering finish. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8% Price: $18
94 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) 2012 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Touches of fennel and saffron lend an earthy touch to this sweet, silky nectar of peach and marmalade. While lavishly glycerin on the tongue, the palate extends to a bristling lemon-lime finish. Penetratingly fruity, yet anchored with acidity and minerality, this is delicious now but has a bold future through the next decade. Winesellers Ltd. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 8% Price: $52
94 Egon Müller 2011 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Opening notes of smoke and dried herb blow off to reveal layers of ripe tangerine, honey, lemon and lime on this aromatic medium-sweet Riesling. The palate is lusciously fruity, with rich, ripe flavors of mango and peach, but cut by piercing citrus acidity that penetrates. The finish lingers on and on. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 8.5% Price: $480
93 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2012 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Initial aromas of smoke and earth blow off to show ripe, rich aromas of yellow cherries and nectarines on this powerful yet nuanced Riesling. It’s medium-sweet in style, with juicy, forward fruit balanced by minerality and a shock of acidity on the finish. It’s delicious now, but should reveal more of its honeyed, earthy complexities as it matures over the next 7–9 years. Saranty Imports. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 8% Price: $38
93 Dr. Loosen 2011 Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese Goldkapsule (Mosel). Waxy lemon rind and white floral notes are an elegant introduction to this gorgeously complex Riesling. The palate is delicately framed, yet deeply penetrating, with unctuous honey and citrus flavors laced with saffron and spice. Shrieking acidity shakes everything up and lingers long on the finish. Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 7.5% Price: $NA
93 Maximin Grünhäuser 2012 Herrenberg Riesling Auslese 24 (Mosel). While delicate in frame and aroma, this is a powerfully concentrated Riesling that’s chock full of marmalade and yellow peach flavors. Accents of honey, spice and saffron, along with searingly tart tangerine acidity, awaken the palate and linger languorously on the finish. Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 7% Price: $66/375 ml
93 Schloss Saarstein 2012 Serrig Schloss Saarsteiner Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Savory herb and smoke notes on the nose contrast this Riesling’s rich, unctuously fruity palate full of peach and apricot jam. Searing citrus acidity jolts the senses and highlights a long finish laced with honey and jasmine tea notes. Structured yet nuanced, this wine is delicious now, but should show even more complexity in a decade. Valckenberg International, Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 7.5% Price: $71
92 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2012 Bernkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Aeration peels away the layers of savory smoke that obscure layers of peach preserves, cherry blossoms and spice on this beautifully composed Riesling. Medium-sweet on the palate, with a honeyed richness that coats the tongue, it’s balanced by streaks of minerality and a bristling tea-leaf astringency on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: NA Price: $57
91 Bollig-Lehnert 2012 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese (Mosel). While remarkably lithe and delicate in style, this complex auslese is lusciously concentrated, with ripe peach and nectarine flavors balanced by hints of smoke, spice and musk. It’s zippy and bright, with tart tangerine acidity and a wave of minerality on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 7.5% Price: $23
90 Heinz Eifel 2012 Riesling Auslese (Mosel). A fantastic bargain at $14, this nuanced wine balances heady saffron and spice notes against a backdrop of ripe mango and yellow cherry flavors. It’s lavishly mineral on the midpalate, with striking lemon-lime acidity that drives an elegant, herb-accented finish. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 8% Price: $14
90 Leonard Kreusch 2012 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Musky floral, spice and cherry-blossom notes meld in the exuberant bouquet of this aromatic auslese. It’s blossomy on the palate as well, and luscious, with sweet peach and yellow cherry flavors. It’s unabashedly lavish, but balanced by a streak of citrus acidity and a long, lingering finish. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8% Price: $18
90 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2012 Dom Riesling (Mosel). For full review see page 89.
abv: 9% Price: $17
90 Peter Nicolay 2012 Riesling (Mosel). Whiffs of musk and violet perfume offset ripe peach and tangerine notes on this off-dry, yet intensely fruity Riesling. Bracing lime-tinged acidity and fresh herbal tones lend grace and vitality through the finish. Balanced and elegant in style. Saranty Imports. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 9.5% Price: $12
90 Peter Nicolay 2012 Blue Slate Riesling (Mosel). Preserved quince and honeyed apple flavors are accented by streaks of mineral and lime zest on this elegant off-dry Riesling. Tart green apple and fresh herb notes lift the midpalate. It finishes long, but crisp and refreshing. Saranty Imports. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 11% Price: $15
89 Clear Night 2012 Riesling (Pfalz). Initial notes of earth and dust blow off with aeration to reveal pretty white floral and peach aromas. Off dry in style, the palate is concentrated with ripe honeydew flavor against a backdrop of steely, linear acidity. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 10.5% Price: $11
90 Franz Keller 2011 Schwarzer Adler Pinot Noir (Baden). Char and roasted coffee notes lend a brooding, smoky backdrop to bright red berry and cherry flavors in this full-bodied Pinot Noir. Cranberry acidity bristles the palate, leading a long finish marked by firm but fine tannins. It needs another 3–5 years in the cellar to integrate, but should mature elegantly. Schmitt-Söhne USA. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $25
90 Franz Keller 2011 Franz Anton Schwarzer Adler Pinot Noir (Baden). This juicy, fruit-forward Pinot Noir has fresh and primary aromas of ripe blackberries and cherries. Intense cranberry acidity and hints of dark toast and spice add balance and elegance. It’s unabashedly pleasant drinking, but structured enough to carry well over the next 3–5 years. Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $42
90 Grafen Neipperg 2011 Neipperger Spätburgunder (Württemberg). Char and roasted coffee notes add toasty nuances to ripe black-cherry flavors in this penetrating Pinot Noir. A vein of brisk cranberry acidity runs through the palate, adding zip and verve. It’s finely textured, but bold tannins linger on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $37
90 Grafen Neipperg 2011 Spätburgunder Trocken (Württemberg). Hints of menthol and bramble meld with rich black-plum and cherry notes in this composed Pinot Noir. It’s juicy and concentrated in black fruit flavors, but graced with a spray of delicate floral notes and brisk, revitalizing acidity. Soft, fine tannins square off the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $26
90 Thörle 2010 Saulheimer Hölle Spätburgunder Trocken (Rheinhessen). Enticing aromas of blackberry, bramble and wet leaves meld on the nose of this elegant, nuanced Spätburgunder. It’s concentrated and juicy, with black cherry flavor, but invigorated by a stream of laser-like acidity that carries through the finish. It ends with a pretty violet accent. Ingenium Wines. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $60
1
2Riesling Trocken
3Riesling Kabinett
4Riesling Spätlese
5Riesling Auslese
6Other Riesling
7Spätburgunder
