While tapas have been elevated to haute cuisine throughout much of the country, they are thought to have started as coverings to keep fruit flies out of wine glasses.
At most bars, a small plate is offered with each glass of wine ordered. In addition to albondigas (meatballs made with lamb, beef or pork), classic choices include ensaladilla rusa (potato and tuna salad), padrón peppers, seafood salad, croquetas, seasonal bean salads, grilled octopus, fried shrimp with garlic, small pork fillets, tortilla Española (Spanish omelet) and a variety of small open-faced sandwiches called pinchos (note: the bread and toppings are held together by a toothpick, which is where the name derives from).
Bite-sized meatballs are a staple at nearly every tapas bar in Spain. Lamb is a favorite, and these Tempranillo-bathed albondigas are flavored with spices harkening back to the kingdom of al-Andalus.
Recipe courtesy Mike DeSimone & Jeff Jenssen
For the meatballs:
½ pound ground lamb
½ pound ground beef
2 ounces Manchego cheese, finely grated
1 small yellow onion, finely diced
2 ounces ground almonds
½ teaspoon dried ground rosemary
¾ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon black pepper, coarsely ground
½ teaspoon dried oregano
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
For the sauce:
3 tablespoons butter
1 medium yellow onion, diced
Salt and pepper, to taste
½ cup beef stock
2 cups Tempranillo
½ teaspoon dried oregano
Pinch of ground cumin
Rosemary or oregano sprigs, for garnish
Preheat oven to 350˚F.
Using hands, combine meatball ingredients in a mixing bowl until blended. Roll into small meatballs, using about 1 tablespoon of mixture for each. Place on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 40–45 minutes, until browned.
Heat butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat, swirling pan until melted. Add onion and stir occasionally until wilted and just turning golden, about 3 minutes. Add salt and pepper, to taste. Gradually add beef stock, stirring continuously. When beef stock begins to reduce, gradually add Tempranillo (about ¼ cup at a time) while stirring. Allow to bubble and reduce before adding more. Adjust heat as necessary so sauce does not burn. When all the Tempranillo has been added and reduced by about half, stir in dried oregano and cumin. Add small amounts of salt and pepper to taste.
Reduce to simmer, add cooked meatballs to skillet and stir lightly until coated. Transfer to a platter or low-sided bowl. Garnish with rosemary or oregano sprigs and serve immediately. Yields 24.
The Wine: Ramón Bilbao 2011 Crianza (Rioja). This Tempranillo’s dark red fruit, hint of smoke and bright acidity make it an ideal match for these meatballs scented with cumin, oregano and rosemary.