
German cuisine in North America has always been encapsulated in a certain caricature: kitschy beer halls with dirndl-clad servers; platters of sausages and schnitzel alongside boot-shaped steins of beer. While traditional comfort foods and smoked or cured pork, game or beef will always be present in German cuisine, they’re not representative of the country’s contemporary culinary scene.
In its homeland, German fare is quite diverse, and in recent years, chefs have been embracing traditional ingredients with fresher and more cosmopolitan strokes.
“German cuisine is intensely seasonal and ingredient-driven,” says Jeremy Nolen, chef at Brauhaus Schmitz in Philadelphia.
David Mueller, co-executive chef at Bauhaus Restaurant in Vancouver, agrees. “Germany is such a regionally diverse country, relying on a bounty of beautiful, fresh local products from its farms, forests and waters.”
In Europe, only France and Italy boast more Michelin-starred restaurants than Germany. Now, establishments like Bauhaus and Brauhaus Schmitz are bringing haute German cuisine to our shores.
“German food has become so creative and multicultural,” says Tim Schulte, co-executive chef at Bauhaus Restaurant. “It’s hard to say what is German anymore.”
The recipes that follow are inspired by both Bauhaus and Brauhaus Schmitz, streamlined for the home cook.
Meet the Chefs
Chefs Tim Schulte and David Mueller, Bauhaus Restaurant, Vancouver, British Columbia
Owned by filmmaker Uwe Boll, Bauhaus epitomizes modern German cuisine in North America. The menu, crafted by Co-Executive Chefs Tim Schulte and David Mueller, is nuanced and textural, deconstructing and reintroducing the standards. It showcases Vancouver’s bounty of fresh seafood, meats and seasonal produce from small, often family-owned farms.
Jeremy Nolen, chef at Brauhaus Schmitz in Philadelphia and co-author of New German Cooking: Recipes for Classics Revisited (Chronicle Books, 2015)
Brauhaus Schmitz is a popular German beer hall in Philadelphia’s South Street neighborhood. Beyond house-made brats and an extensive beer list, Nolen’s cooking emphasizes seasonal vegetables, herbs and whole grains.
“It’s the way we personally like to eat,” says Nolen. The menu keeps traditional flavors intact, but presents them in a fresher and cleaner way. Nolen’s cookbook, New German Cooking, released in 2015, reinterprets those ideas into family-friendly recipes.
1Matjes with Green Apple and Celery Salad
2Cold Potato-Leek Soup with Cured Salmon and Pickled Vegetables
3Duck Legs with Roasted Vegetables and Pomegranate Jus
4Apple Strudel Mille-Feuille Recipe