Insider's Guide to Buenos Aires
Explore the ins-and-outs of urban Buenos Aires. Covering food, shopping and the city’s recent history, this is your ultimate guide to Argentina’s capital city.
—Mike DeSimone & Jeff Jenssen
La Brigada: Resident Porteños could argue for days, but most would agree that is this is the place to go for beef in San Telmo.
Don Julio Parrilla: In Palermo Soho, it offers a blend of traditional wagon–wheel décor and a modern, open kitchen.
La Cabrera is another good carnivore’s choice in the area.
Other standouts are El Establo in Centro, Cabaña las Lilas in Puerto Madero and El Obrero in La Boca.
Where’s the Beef?
The secrets to ordering the city’s best grass-fed steaks.
Making the cut. If you like filet -mignon, order the bife de lomo. If you’re a New York strip fan, ask for bife de chorizo. Short rib aficionados should order the tira de asado, and if you’re loco for rib-eye, then ask for ojo de bife.
Done deal. If you like your steak rare, ask for jugoso, and for medium, al punto. At the risk of being chastised, if you want it well-done,
forcefully ask for bien hecho.
Shop Til You Drop
San Telmo Market Enjoy a leisurely paseo (stroll) as you shop for silver, vintage clothing, mismatched crystal and antique seltzer bottles.
Alpataco Wine and Leather Located in Recoleta, it offers 200 labels of Argentine wine plus custom leather wine carriers, placemats and accessories.
Arandú is the place for ponchos, boots, belts and gifts for the equestrian in your life.
Terroir Casa de Vinos in Palermo Chico is a vinoteca offering wine, spirits, accessories and tastings.
Autre Monde is a combination bookstore and wine shop focusing on small-production boutique wines that you won’t find back home.
All Things Evita
The spirits of Eva Perón, the former first lady known as Evita, and her husband, Juan Perón, live on in the minds and hearts of many Porteños.
Recoleta Cemetery: At this 14-acre, above-ground tribute to the city’s famous citizens, Evita’s is the most visited tomb.
Casa Rosada: Visit the “pink house,” also known as the Presidential Palace (pictured), and see the balcony from which the Peróns addressed throngs of supporters.
Evita Museum: Opened in 2002 on the 50th anniversary of her death, it features some of her early films as well as fashionable displays of her opulent clothing.
Social Development Ministry: See the 10-story, forged-steel portrait of Evita on the south facade of this grand building.