Savory Recipes to Fight Winter Weather
There are few comforts in these frigid, post-holiday months like indulging in some hearty meals before we begin worrying about beach season. Whether you need something to warm up after a walking through winter wonderlands or are just looking for a savory reason to cheat on your New Year’s resolutions, these seven recipes with wine pairings will light a fire in your belly.
Turn on your oven and tell winter… not today. —Compiled by Dylan Garret
Recipe courtesy of Joe Cerqueira, Atasca, Cambridge MA
Chef Cerqueira serves this simple but flavorful chicken stew over rice, but says that some Portuguese cooks serve it with both rice and potatoes. The recipe can easily be halved to serve two or increased to serve more; simply adjust the seasonings to your taste.
- 1 (1-pound) chicken, cut into 8 pieces
- Salt and pepper
- 1/2 cup olive oil or enough to generously coat bottom of skillet
- 2 onions, coarsely chopped
- 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
- 2 bay leaves
- 1/2 cup chopped parsley
- 6 ripe medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped
- 3 cups cooked rice
Wash chicken pieces thoroughly and pat dry. Season with salt and pepper.
Heat oil in large skillet set over medium-high heat until oil ripples slightly. Arrange chicken in skillet in a single layer, working in batches if necessary, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes on each side, or until golden brown. Add onions, garlic, bay leaves and parsley, season with salt and pepper and cook, shaking pan occasionally, for about 5 minutes, until onions are pale golden color. Be careful not to burn garlic.
Reduce heat to low, add tomatoes and cook for 20 to 25 minutes or until chicken is cooked through. (Meat should not be pink, and dark meat juices should run clear. Kitchen thermometer inserted into thickest part of thigh should read 160F.) Spoon over rice and serve hot.
Its uncomplicated seasonings make this dish an ideal backdrop to one of Portugal’s fine reds, such as the Marquês de Borba from Alentejo.
Chef Ximena Torres’ TV show, La Receta Perfecta (The Perfect Recipe), seeks to inject fun—and wine—into preparing home-cooked meals. Here is one of Torres’s favorite Uruguayan dishes.
Artesana 2011 Tannat (Canelones)
- 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 7 ounces bacon, cubed
- 1 large onion, finely chopped
- 1 red bell pepper, finely chopped
- 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
- 1 cup tomato purée
- ½ cup red wine (Uruguayan Tannat, or another medium-bodied young red)
- 1 tablespoon dried oregano
- 3 sprigs thyme
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 tablespoon smoked Spanish paprika (pimentón)
- Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
- 1¾ cups lentils, presoaked and drained
- 2 cups vegetable stock
- 1 carrot, shredded
- 2 slices day-old white bread soaked in ¾ cup milk (optional)
- Fresh parsley, to taste
- 6 small eggs
- Sea salt, to taste
In a large casserole, heat the olive oil, add the bacon and cook until the fatty part of the bacon renders completely. Add the onion, red pepper and garlic, and cook until tender, but not brown, about 5 minutes. If the bacon is lean, add more oil.
When the vegetables are soft, add the tomato purée. If tomatoes are in-season, you can use 3 medium-sized, freshly chopped tomatoes to purée. Add the red wine, oregano, thyme, bay leaf, paprika and black pepper. Cook for several minutes, until the wine is reduced.
Add the lentils and the stock and cook covered for 20 minutes, or until the lentils are tender. Add in the shredded carrot and cook uncovered for 15 more minutes. Remove all the herbs, stalks and leaves.
For a creamier result, add pieces of the day-old white bread soaked in milk until stew reaches desired consistency.
To finish the dish, preheat the oven to 350˚F. Place a serving of lentil stew in 6 individual ovenproof bowls or ramekins. Sprinkle each with chopped parsley, then break an egg over each portion. Place the bowls in the oven and bake for about 5 minutes, allowing the egg to cook to medium, but not harder. Sprinkle the egg with sea salt and more black pepper before serving. Serves 6.
Cook with—and drink—Artesana’s 2011 Tannat-Merlot blend (87 points; $29) from Canelones, Uruguay’s most traditional winemaking region. This hearty, leather-inflected wine delivers lots of dark-fruit character, ideal to accompany a robust stew such as this.
Recipe courtesy Chef Louis Maldonado, Spoonbar, Healdsburg, CA
- 8 pound piece of beef chuck
- 2 cups salt
- 1 cup sugar
- 4 sprigs thyme
- 1 tablespoon chili flakes
- 1 tablespoon coriander seeds, toasted
- 1 cup beef jus
- 4 tablespoons fish sauce
- 1 medium shallot
- 6 tablespoons red wine vinegar
- 1½ cups brown butter, clarified
In a large pot, combine 4 quarts of water, salt, sugar, thyme, chili flakes and toasted coriander seeds and whisk till incorporated. Add the chuck and brine overnight.
The next day remove the beef from brine and pat dry, sear in a cast-iron pan over medium-high heat. Cover with water and braise in a 350°F oven for 2–3 hours, or until fork tender. Let cool in the braising liquid and remove. When able to handle, cut into 6 portions and reserve until ready to use.
Bring the beef jus to a boil and add the fish sauce, shallot and red wine vinegar. In a blender on high, whirl the sauce until fully incorporated, then slowly add the clarified brown butter until fully emulsified.
Grill or sear the reserved beef chuck portions, and keep warm in a low oven. Chef likes to keep the quinoa at room temp for this dish. Place the quinoa on a plate with the turnips on top, place the chuck on top and spoon some sauce on the chuck. Chef Maldonado likes to heap everything on top of foraged wild greens. Serves 6.
3 each baby turnips, halved, with the tops on
2 each lemons
4 quarts water
3 tablespoons olive oil
Salt to taste
Combine the water and juice from the lemons, peel the turnips and hold in the water till ready to use so they won’t oxidize. Preheat a 450°F oven. Toss the turnips in the olive oil and salt. Roast on a sheet tray for 20 minutes.
4 cups quinoa
8 cups water
¼ cup butter
Salt to taste
Melt the butter in a pot. Add the quinoa and toast for 2 minutes. Add the water and slowly simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally so it won’t stick to the pot. Finish with salt to season. The quinoa should be dry when finished cooking.
Papapietro’s Pauline’s Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley).
Açorda, which dates back to the days of the Moors, is often translated as dry soup because its major component, bread, absorbs much of the liquid. Vieira, of Tony da Caneca, dresses up what can be a workday favorite with generous helpings of lobster, shrimp and other shellfish. Vieira’s piri-piri oil (molho de piri-piri) represents one of the many ways Portuguese cooks use chili peppers. Piri-piri is fiery hot, and if you have never tried it or are unsure of its strength, use it sparingly. If you can’t find malaguetas, other hot chilies can be substituted.
Sogrape 1996 Reserva Red (Douro)
- 12 cherrystone clams, scrubbed and bearded
- 12 mussels, scrubbed and bearded
- 12 cockles, scrubbed and bearded
- 1 (1 1/2-pound) lobster
- 1/2 cup olive oil
- 4 tablespoons finely minced garlic
- 12 to 16 slices country bread, each about 1-inch thick
- 1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined
- 1/2 cup finely chopped cilantro
- Salt and black pepper to taste
- 1/2 to 1 teaspoon piri-piri oil, or to taste
- 6 eggs, at room temperature
Place clams, mussels and cockles in large pot with about 1 inch of water. Cover and steam for 5 to 10 minutes or until shellfish just open. Discard any that remain closed. Remove the rest from pot with slotted spoon and set aside. Strain cooking liquid through fine-mesh strainer into large bowl, making sure that any sand from shellfish is strained out. Place bread in bowl to soak in stock. Remove clams, mussels and cockles from their shells and set aside.
Meanwhile, in a large pot, boil about 1 inch of water, covered. Add lobster, cover and steam for about 20 minutes. Remove cooked lobster from pot, remove meat from tail and claws and chop in small pieces. Set aside.
Heat 1/4 cup oil in large skillet set over medium-high heat until oil ripples slightly. Add 2 tablespoons garlic and cook for 30 seconds, until golden. Add soaked bread and slowly bring to a boil.
Meanwhile, heat remaining olive oil in deep saucepan or stockpot set over medium heat until oil ripples slightly. Add garlic and cook for 30 seconds, until golden. Add shrimp, clams, mussels, cockles and lobster pieces, cover and simmer for 5 minutes, or until shrimp are pink. Spoon all shellfish over bread and stock. Add cilantro, season with salt and pepper and piri-piri. Mix well.
Preheat broiler. Spoon shellfish-bread mixture into large clay baking dish or other ovenproof casserole dish. With a spoon, create six small “craters” in surface of mixture. Gently break eggs into craters. Broil for about 2 minutes, until eggs are cooked and top of mixture is golden brown. Spoon into bowls and serve hot.
For the piri-piri oil:
1/4 cup seeded, coarsely chopped malagueta or other hot chile peppers
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup olive oil
Combine chilies, salt and oil in a glass jar with a lid. Cover tightly and keep refrigerated. Piri-piri sauce will keep in the refrigerator for several months.
An Alvarinho vinho verde, such as Quinta do Melgaço’s QM, has the palate-refreshing stuff to put out a piri-piri fire. If you favor less heat, you could serve a light red; try Sogrape’s 1996 Douro Reserva.
This update to classic Spanish paella is just what winter calls for.
- 2 teaspoons salt
- ½ teaspoon dried oregano
- ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
- ½ teaspoon Spanish pimenton or paprika
- ¼ teaspoon cumin
- 12 baby back pork ribs, about 3 pounds, separated
- For the paella:
- 2 carrots, peeled and cut into ¼-inch slices
- 1 tablespoon Spanish pimenton
- ¼ cup olive oil
- 1 onion, medium dice
- 2 cloves garlic, sliced
- Salt and pepper, to taste
- 1 red pepper, fine dice
- 2 plum tomatoes, seeded and diced
- 1 16-ounce package dried fava beans, soaked overnight
- 1 tablespoon Spanish pimenton or paprika
- 4 cups chicken broth
- 2 cups Spanish medium-grain rice
To prepare the ribs:
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Combine the brown sugar, salt, oregano, red pepper flakes, pimenton and cumin in a bowl. Arrange the ribs in a deep baking dish, and sprinkle the brown sugar mixture over the ribs. Using your fingers, rub the mixture into the ribs until they are well coated.
Place the ribs in the pre-heated oven, and roast until browned, about 40–45 minutes.
To prepare the paella:
In a small saucepan, cover the sliced carrots with water. Set the pan over medium heat and bring the water to a boil. Lower the heat to medium-low, and cook until softened but still retaining structure, about 5–7 minutes. Drain the water and purée the carrots in a blender or food processor until smooth. Stir in the pimenton.
Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch paella pan set over a medium flame. Add the onion and garlic and cook until lightly browned and softened, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Add the red pepper, tomatoes and drained, pre-soaked fava beans to the pan. Stir until the pepper softens, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken broth, turn the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Stir in the rice and the carrot purée, then turn the heat to medium-low. Cook for about 20 minutes longer, until almost all the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender.
Arrange the cooked baby back ribs on top of the paella so the ribs’ sides are partially covered with rice. Remove the pan from stove and place in the 350°F oven for 7–10 minutes, until the ribs are re-heated.
Recipes, like talent, often skip a generation. Trying to recreate my grandmother’s osso buco, I had to rely on my sense of taste and memory to know if I got it right. According to my mother, I did! One of the best things about this dish is that, for the most part, it cooks unattended until just before you’re ready to serve, leaving more time to mingle with guests. You can serve this osso buco with a variety of sides, from pasta to polenta, rice or potatoes, but the traditional DeSimone plating calls for fettuccine.
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- Sea salt and coarse ground black pepper, to taste
- 8 veal shanks, 10–12 ounces each
- ¹⁄₃ cup extra virgin olive oil
- 3 carrots, peeled and diced
- 2 ribs celery, sliced
- 1 large yellow onion, diced
- 3 tablespoons tomato paste
- 2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
- 1½ cups dry red wine
- ¼ teaspoon sugar
- 8 rosemary sprigs, for garnish
- 1 can (14 ounces) diced tomatoes
- 4 cups beef stock
- 1 teaspoon dried rosemary leaves
- 2 teaspoons dried thyme
- 1½ pounds cooked fettuccine (optional)
Preheat oven to 350˚F.
Pour flour into a large shallow bowl. Add small amounts of salt and pepper. Dredge veal shanks in flour mixture, coating evenly. Shake off excess flour.
Add olive oil to a large cast-iron or enamel Dutch oven, and warm over medium-high heat. Brown veal shanks 2 or 3 at a time, turning once, about 6 minutes per side. Transfer veal to a large plate.
Reduce heat to medium. Add carrots, celery and onion. Stir occasionally until vegetables soften, about 5 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Stir in tomato paste and garlic. Continue to stir for about 1 minute, until paste begins to bubble. Add wine, stirring intermittently until wine begins to reduce. Adjust heat, if necessary. Add canned tomatoes, beef stock, dried rosemary, thyme and sugar. Add salt and pepper to taste. Using tongs, arrange veal shanks in pot. Cover pot, place in oven and cook for 2½ hours, or until veal is tender.
Transfer pot to stovetop. If sauce is thin, simmer over medium-high heat until sauce thickens. Stir occasionally.
To serve, place each shank in a shallow bowl or on a wide plate over optional fettucine. Ladle sauce over top and around the sides. Garnish each serving with a fresh rosemary sprig. Makes 8 servings.
At Grace in Fort Worth, Texas, Chef Blaine Staniford serves up ingenious interpretations of American standards, alongside the best wine list in this half of the booming Dallas-Forth Worth culinary scene. This mock-butterscotch pudding is made with Valrhona’s Dulcey blond chocolate, a caramelized white chocolate. The recipe multiplies easily to make impressive individual desserts for a crowd, and ramekins of any size may be used.
- 2 (2.46 ounce) bars Valrhona Dulcey blond chocolate, chopped finely
- ½ cup heavy cream
- ½ cup milk
- 2 tablespoons sugar
- 2 egg yolks
- Butter or cooking spray, for coating ramekins
Preheat oven to 325˚F. Lightly butter four 3-ounce ramekins (if using another size, cooking times will need to be adjusted). Cut a circle of parchment paper to fit the bottom of each one, then butter the parchment. Set the ramekins in a roasting pan just large enough to fit.
Place the chocolate in a heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, scald the cream and milk, then pour over the chocolate and whisk until the chocolate is melted. In another bowl, whisk the sugar and egg yolks well. Gradually whisk in a small amount of the chocolate mixture, then whisk that mixture back into the chocolate.
Divide the mixture among the ramekins, then pour boiling water into the roasting pan so it comes three-fourths of the way up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the pan with foil, and cut several slits in the top. Bake for about 25 minutes, or until the edges are firm but the middle still jiggles. Remove from the pan, cool to room temperature, then cover with plastic wrap and chill at least 3 hours or overnight. To serve, run a knife around the side of each ramekin, invert onto a plate, and remove parchment. To serve as they do at Grace, add crushed glazed Marcona almonds and salted-caramel gelato. Serves 4.
Yalumba NV Museum Reserve Antique Tawny 21 Years Old Port (South Australia). “I subscribe to the school of thought that your dessert wine should be sweeter than your dessert,” says Jenny Kornblum, Grace’s sommelier. “Yalumba’s Antique Reserve Tawny from Barossa Valley, Australia, really fits the bill, with its sweet and nutty flavors. It has a richness and complexity to it without being syrupy or cloying to the palate.”
- 1Atasca’s Stewed Chicken
- 2How to Make Uruguay’s Famous Lentil Stew
- 3Slow Cooked Beef Chuck from Sonoma’s Spoonbar
- 4Bread Soup with Shellfish
- 5Baby Back Rib and Fava Bean Paella
- 6Grandma Termini’s Osso Buco
- 7"Butterscotch" Pudding