While traveling on the Belmond Venice-Simplon Orient Express from Prague to Paris, Sasha Petraske and Walter Nisi sit down to discuss the creative process, the art of the free-pour and what every young bartender should know before getting behind the stick.
Recorded and edited by Georgette Moger
S: How did you come to be a bartender?
W: When I was very young I fell in love with an imagined picture of a barman—white jacket, a very old man, really a General standing behind the counter. But growing in my career, this didn’t really match what I am because this General was never moving, never interacting.
W: And may I ask why ‘Sasha’—who were you named after?
S: My parents gave me a very versatile name, Alexander. They believed it had many possibilities—Xander, Sasha, Al, etcetera.
W: Where were they from?
S: They are from the Ukraine. Dubăsari—it’s near Odessa.
W: My wife and I had our honeymoon in Odessa.
S: My Russian roots aside, I’m happier we’re honeymooning with you on the Orient-Express! Looking around, I see that all of the bartenders work without jiggers—I presume that’s because of the listing of the train. Is it your own preferred method of bartending?
W: It is. One barman I had met in my career inspired me with his words—Mauro Lotti. Mauro told me that in Italy we don’t use the jigger, as we need to feel the spirits going out of the bottle while standing behind the bar and feeling the blood in our feet.
S: What is your process behind creating new cocktails?
W: I create them in my head and I wait a few months before I share them. You’re never sure how it’ll turn out. These things are important to me and keep me awake. I believe humility is a very important characteristic of being a bartender.
S: Humility is very important. Within a bar, I’ve always believed everyone should be able to do everyone’s job. What would be your advice to a young bartender?
W: You need passion, professionalism and to be ever curious—curiosity makes you go and study a little bit more. If you take up bartending as a job, there will be a time where you start to suffer because you see yourself in an under position. If you take up tending a bar with real passion then there is no level—you give service and it’s selfless. The service shows your professionalism and the guests are going to treat you kindly.
S: How would you describe the essence of your cocktail program?
W: To me, the bar should not reflect a modern time.
S: So you look to more of a place in time rather than a geographical place.
W: Often guests are looking for drinks that reflect the place they have been. For example after we leave Prague, many passengers will ask for a pilsner but you cannot connect that with what you feel inside the train. It is only if you have a cocktail that reflects the atmosphere.
S: So then what are a few of your favorite ingredients?
W: The Guilty 12 recalls the story of Murder on the Orient-Express. Eleven of the ingredients are elixirs from the stops between Paris and Istanbul—Switzerland for the sherry spirit, Maraschino from Italy and from Istanbul, an elixir called raki (pronounced, rocky). Champagne is the 12th. You understand—I cannot give the exact recipe.
S: When we return from Prague, I’ll stand on the customer side of the bar and prepare a cocktail—I wouldn’t want to get behind your bar without the proper coat.
W: I understand, but I want you to get behind the [Orient-Express] bar.
S: When I first opened my bar, I would visit other bars and want to get behind them—I’d feel uncomfortable even to be at a table. If I wear a white jacket, I’ll blend.
W: No. It doesn’t matter. We will make cocktails together. Your place is behind the bar, Sasha.
Take a peak inside the revamped Orient Express and learn one of their signature cocktails in the exclusive Wine Enthusiast video below!
Pictured: The author and her husband, the late Sasha Petraske, traveled on the Belmond Venice-Simplon Orient Express for their honeymoon in 2015.