Meet 10 Trailblazing Women Leading the Wine Industry Forward

Krista Scruggs, Owner/Winegrower, ZAFA Wines, Vermont

Originally from California, Scruggs entered the wine business on a lark. On the verge of becoming a firefighter, a friend helped her land a position at Constellation Brands in 2013 as a bulk shipping coordinator. She then worked for growers in Washington, Italy, Southern France and Texas. She recently left her position as assistant winemaker La Garagista Farm & Winery in Vermont to become vineyard manager of Ellison Estate Vineyard and owner/winegrower of ZAFA Wines.

What is it like to be a female in a male-dominated industry?

First off, I’m proud to be a woman diversifying this industry. I know for a fact I would not be asked the questions I’ve been asked if I were a man. To be a female is to have your ability questioned. Beyond that, I’m excited to be part of the lineage of Deirdre Heekin at La Garagista. I was her first protégé. She’s now working with other women, and it’s exciting that Vermont landed on the world’s wine map because of a woman. People are taking Vermont seriously and coming here to make wine because of that. It’s inspiring.

As a female in the wine industry, have you dealt with gender-related challenges?

I don’t think the wine industry is so different from any other male-dominated industry in that until it isn’t homogenized, being a woman will always have its challenges. That being said, at consumer wine fairs in major cosmopolitan cities—New York, London, etc.—I’m frequently questioned about my role in the vineyard. And the question comes 100 percent of the time from men. They can’t imagine I’m getting my hands dirty, know my way around a tractor and aren’t just standing inside the winery with my hands on my hips. Because I’ve been marginalized most of my life, I’m embracing it as an opportunity to face this challenge head on.

Is there one woman, in the industry or outside of it, who has inspired you throughout your career?

Deirdre Heekin, or “Queen D.” Mentorship has been and will forever be the most important role in my life as a winegrower/farmer, because I feel I will always be a student. Having the opportunity work beside Deirdre in the vineyard and winery has been life changing. To taste beside her and constantly learn and grow via talking about the big things and the little things, including navigating being a woman in this industry, has been transformative.

Viviana Navarrete, Chief Winemaker, Viña Leyda, Leyda Valley, Chile

Navarrete studied agricultural sciences at the Pontifical Catholic University of Chile, where she also specialized in winemaking. In 2007, she was named chief winemaker at Viña Leyda, where she aims to produce the best cool climate wines in Chile. She’s considered an innovator, and she’s one of the country’s few winemakers to produce Sauvignon Gris and Riesling, for which she’s received many accolades.

As a female in the wine industry, have you dealt with gender-related challenges?

In the beginning of my carrier in my first job, I had to prove that female winemakers could be as efficient as men. I had to show my strength, work long hours and put in extra effort to prove my value. Back then, when I started at Leyda, only a few women worked as chief winemakers at Chilean wineries. But time has shown that we are as good as men at the job. Plus, we are detailed-oriented, committed to our work and overall very passionate. So, we could prove that we do have something special: more caring in work and with our people, we are able to transmit and communicate our passion to them and we are good team leaders.

How have things changed, or not changed, for women in your region?

Leyda is a small region and things haven’t changed too much in terms of numbers. After 11 years, there are only two female chief winemakers. The rest of the wineries are managed by men. However, I see more women involved in different areas of the wine industry throughout the country. Nowadays, I see far more women working as export managers. Years ago, that role was impossible, because it demanded a lot of time on the road visiting markets. There are also more women leading marketing departments, communications, working in quality control. It’s interesting and exciting to see this movement. The only area where we are not growing as rapidly is on the viticultural side.

Do you think women make wine differently, or make different wine from men? If so, how?

I am sure that women make wines of different styles than men. I think we make less extracted wines. Rather than big blockbuster styles, we look for more finesse. Personally, I make wines with more minerality, freshness, vibrancy and identity rather than big structured wines. And that fits perfectly with Leyda Valley’s grape varieties, which are Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. So, both my style and what I want to express from this terroir matches perfectly: wines with elegance and finesse.

Andrea Mullineux, Owner/Winemaker, Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines, Swartland, South Africa

Mullineux developed her passion for wine growing up at the family dinner table near San Francisco. After she studied viticulture and oenology at UC Davis and completed harvests in the Napa Valley, Mullineux worked in Stellenbosch, and then Châteauneuf-du-Pape, where she met her husband, Chris. They moved back to South Africa to start their first winery in the Swartland. Under her guidance, Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines was awarded the 2014 and 2016 Platter’s South African Winery of the year. In 2016, she was named Winemaker of the Year by Wine Enthusiast.

What is it like to be a female in a male-dominated industry?

When I was younger, I used to overcompensate for the fact that I was a bit smaller than my male counterparts and would work extra hard to command respect in the cellar. That has helped me to get where I am today. I still come home with wine stains and rogue grapes in the folds of my shorts during harvest. It is important to show that nothing is a challenge that cannot be overcome in the cellar, and as a woman, I sometimes have fresh ideas on how to get things done and notice things that others may have missed because I am coming at it from a different angle, literally and figuratively.

Is there one woman, in the industry or outside of it, who has inspired you throughout your career?

The hardest part is thinking of only one woman. I am definitely drawn to and inspired by strong women in the wine industry: Zelma Long, Norma Ratcliffe, Cathy Corison, Heidi Barrett and Carole Meredith, to name a few. Outside of the industry, one of the first “woman in a man’s world” individuals who inspired me was an astronaut named Millie Hughes-Fulford. I called and “interviewed” her as a 13-year-old. Her inspirational words and work ethic profoundly helped shape the way I have approached challenges in my life from that point forward.

Do you think women make wine differently, or make different wine from men? If so, how?

Women have an instinctive nurturing side that I truly feel goes together with winemaking. We can look at the vineyards, fermentation and maturation in a holistic way to help a wine develop through its life, from the first formations of grapes to a balanced wine in the glass showcasing its origin. I do not think there is a stylistic difference to wines made by women, but I think that the extra attention to detail shows up in the final product.

Gabrielle Bouby-Malagu, Deputy Cellarmaster, Champagne Gosset, Champagne, France

Bouby-Malagu joined Champagne Gosset in June, a logical progression for someone raised in a Loire Valley farming family and who worked the last 17 years in sparkling wine. She earned a degree in enology at the French Wine and Vine Institute (IFV). Most of her career has been focused on Champagne, notably as cellarmaster at the Hautvillers cooperative. For more than a decade, Gabrielle worked to institute quality and sustainability initiatives, revitalizing the wine program and launching premium brand Hélène Delhéry.

As a female in the wine industry, have you dealt with gender-related challenges?

I was raised in a family of farmers, an industry which is male-dominated, so I’ve always known this environment. It’s true that on our production team in Gosset’s cellar, there is only one other woman. Once your technical skills and professionalism are acknowledged by the team, however, the rest is just coping with ordinary human relationships. As a manager, “iron fist in a velvet glove” is a necessarily tool I use every day. However, the wine sector is evolving. Ten years ago, I was the only female member in the cellarmaster association. Now there are 10.

How have things changed, or not changed, for women in your region?

Champagne has always had women running houses, and not just famous widows. Suzanne Gosset, for example, successfully ran the business when her husband was a prisoner during World War II. Later, in the ’50s, she launched her own Champagne Rosé, originally in a clear bottle. It remains one of our most successful cuvées.

Is there one woman, in the industry or outside of it, who has inspired you throughout your career?

There are many. Simone Weil and Marie Curie. [And] more recently, Claudie Haigneré, Christine Lagarde or even Philippine de Rothschild, to name a few French characters.

Andrea León, Technical Director/Winemaker, Lapostolle Wines, Colchagua Valley, Chile

León first studied wine in college in the agriculture engineering program at Catholic University of Santiago, where she double-majored in economics and oenology & viticulture. After graduation, she worked at vineyards in the United States, Europe and New Zealand. León returned to Chile for a position at Santa Helena Winery, part of San Pedro Wine Group in Colchagua Valley. From there, she joined the Lapostolle team as the on-site winemaker for Clos Apalta in 2004. She spent five years in that role and continued to work her way up through the company, which resulted in her current position.

What is it like to be a female in a male-dominated industry?

At the vineyard and winery, I always feel at ease, particularly because I have many female co-workers. I have always felt comfortable, even when I was pregnant—I did two harvests while pregnant. There’s a stereotype that people in the countryside are old-fashioned, especially in South America, which has a reputation for being “very macho.” But honestly, it’s rare that I’ve encountered difficulties. Just the occasional resistance to a female boss. For me, I find issues occur more often on the trade side of the business or when visiting a market. That’s when, as a woman, I’m in the minority. These visits often require a social component that can make being the only woman a bit lonely. And in some markets, because of cultural barriers, being a woman can be quite challenging.

How have things changed, or not changed, for women in your region?

In Chile, there are positive cultural changes afoot regarding the role of women in society, not just in the wine industry. But there are still issues to overcome. A big one: the appalling gender wage gap, which was around 30 percent based on last year’s statistics. The worrying part is that it’s not decreasing but increasing. That is a huge problem that needs to be addressed. Also, flexibility and innovation are very important vessels for change, especially for encouraging more women to work in wine, stay in the industry and work their way up.

Do you think women make wine differently, or make different wine from men? If so, how?

It is a bit of a generalization, as I think more than gender related, there is a very important cultural aspect of making wine that can lead to differences. Like the wines we are used to drinking, the food, the landscape where we grow up, for example. In general, I think women are more aware of the environment and can adapt quickly to changing conditions. We tend to think in longer terms. We are very detail-driven, perfectionists, and in a practical sense, that leads to making different wines.

Stephanie Jacobs, Winemaker, Cakebread Cellars, Napa, CA

Stephanie Jacobs rose to winemaker last year, after she began with the brand in 2004 as an enologist. Jacobs became interested in wine while she participated in an exchange program in France. She decided to turn this passion into a profession while she studied at UC Davis. Upon graduation, Stephanie began her winemaking career working at a small winery in the Sierra Foothills, where she learned about cellar operations and lab analysis. In 2001, she went to work for Bogle Vineyards as an enologist before she landed with Cakebread.

As a female in the wine industry, have you dealt with gender-related challenges?

Personally, I haven’t experienced gender as a challenge. I went to UC Davis with both men and women, and everyone was very supportive of each other. Growing up in the industry, it didn’t even occur to me that it could be difficult to get a job because I was woman. And I was fortunate to find a winemaking home at Cakebread Cellars, where I worked for a female winemaker, Julianne Laks. However, I may be part of a younger winemaking generation. Looking at some other female winemakers, such as my predecessor Julianne, they very well could have helped paved the way to this non-gender issue environment. However, when I first attended UC Davis, I planned to study beer making, and that absolutely was more male-oriented. I was one of only two women in beer fermentation class, but it was a non-issue for me. I just wanted to pursue what I was interested in, and everyone was welcoming. My parents always stressed that “a successful career started with a good college education” and passion. And that’s how I intended to approach my career.

What is it like to be a female in a male-dominated industry?

It’s all perspective. I don’t see it as “male-dominated.” Going back to what I said before, it’s very possible others helped pave the way to create this welcoming and balanced environment.

Is there one woman, in the industry or outside of it, who has inspired you throughout your career?

Absolutely: Julianne Laks. She’s been my mentor for the past 14 years and provided a special opportunity here at Cakebread Cellars. She’s was very technical and detailed, all while keeping her cool. She’s extremely knowledgeable in the field, and we worked very closely together.

Melissa Burr, Director of Winemaking, Stoller Family Estate, Willamette Valley, OR

Burr was raised in the Willamette Valley. After completing her Bachelor of Science degree, Burr intended to practice naturopathic medicine before discovering her passion for wine. She studied winemaking and fermentation science at OSU and interned during harvest for several local wineries before becoming production winemaker for Cooper Mountain.

In 2003, Burr joined Stoller Family Estate as the winery’s first dedicated winemaker. At Stoller, she’s helped grow production from 1,000 cases to 60,000. In 2013, Burr partnered with Stoller to launch History, a brand dedicated to paying homage to historic vineyards in the Pacific Northwest.

As a female in the wine industry, have you dealt with gender-related challenges?

I have not had too many gender-related issues. However, I do recall occasions when I first started making wine at Stoller, sales reps would come by and ask to talk with the winemaker. Once, a man didn’t believe I was the winemaker and had to ask several times. No sales made for him that day. On other occasions, people would talk primarily to the other male members of the production team rather than me, which was annoying.

How have things changed, or not changed, for women in your respective region?

There are certainly more women in the wine industry, compared to 10 years ago. There are so many opportunities for women to learn, travel and do vintages, take educational courses and get involved. Our wine team aims to have equal amounts of men and women on our harvest crew each year. At Stoller, there are more women than men employed across departments.

Do you think women make wine differently, or make different wine from men? If so, how?

Generally, women are more aware of their surroundings and see the bigger picture, are nurturing and can sense what needs to happen without it being obvious a lot of the times. Women can pick up on subtleties and nuances in wines, allowing them to craft wines with complexity and layers. Of course, men can do many of these things as well, but the feminine energy lends itself to naturally to be successful.

Kelly Urbanik Koch, Winemaker, Macari Vineyards, Long Island, NY

Koch, originally from St. Helena, California, leads the winemaking team for this Long Island producer. Her love of wine stems from early childhood, when she forged a connection to vineyards in her hometown and made homemade wine with her father and grandfather.

Koch earned a B.S. in viticulture & enology from UC Davis. She worked at several prestigious wineries that include Beringer and Bouchaine Vineyards in California, and Maison Louis Jadot in France. She moved to Macari in 2006, and her work has been honored with multiple awards and recognitions.

As a female in the wine industry, have you dealt with gender-related challenges?

The biggest challenge has nothing to do with day-to-day work or how I perform, but rather others’ perception of me. I was in my mid-twenties when I got my first head winemaker position. A lot of people imagine winemakers as older men and are surprised to see a young female in a winemaking position. Also, I think that it tends to be harder for females to get their foot in the door when starting out. It can be a physical job, and as women, we must prove ourselves. Fortunately, it is not just brute strength that makes a great winemaker.

How have things changed, or not changed, for women in your respective region?

When I moved to Long Island, I was lonely as a woman in the winemaking world here. Louisa Hargrave founded the industry in the late ’70s. As far as I know, after her there weren’t any women in winemaking positions besides Chilean winemaker Paola Valverde, who worked for the Macari family as [its] consultant winemaker for a few years. When I started out here, I joined monthly dinners with the local winemakers, and I would be teased in a loving way about being the only woman. Now there are more women in the cellar out here, and it makes me so happy to see. The North Fork wine industry has a lower percentage of woman winemakers than other regions in the world. I hope that number will continue to increase as our industry evolves.

Do you think women make wine differently, or make different wine from men? If so, how?

That is hard to say. I think that winemaking is such an individual thing and that many differences can be attributed more to personality than gender. But at the same time, I think women tend to be a bit more intuitive with their feelings, which translates well for artistic endeavors such as winemaking. Science can only go so far—your gut must carry you the rest of the way.

Elena Pozzolini, CEO/winemaker, Tenuta Sette Cieli, Tuscany, Italy

Born near Florence, Italy, Elena Pozzolini received a degree in viticulture and enology from the University of Pisa. Elena started her career working two harvests in Argentina for Bodega Renacer. She also worked a harvest in Mornington Peninsula, Australia and two in Santa Ynez Valley, California. While in California, Elena Pozzolini worked alongside winemaker Sashi Moorman, learning to listen to the vineyards and honing her approach to a balanced wine. Back in Italy, Elena worked for Bibi Graetz before joining Tenuta Sette Cieli in 2013.

As a female in the wine industry, have you dealt with gender-related challenges?

After graduating in viticulture & enology, I specialized in vineyard diseases. I collaborated with some wineries, but when I tried to teach the “old men” how to do it right, they didn’t accept my advice. I was young and female, so no one listened. I was disappointed, because I didn’t expect an old man’s world, full of narrow-minded thinking. In a way, I’m thankful for that initial shock. It led me to travel the world, where I discovered open-minded people interested in my opinion.

How have things changed, or not changed, for women in your respective region?

Before, we rarely saw women in charge of wineries, or with roles of responsibility. Things have changed significantly, but it still isn’t easy. Many men relate to women not as co-workers, but as females to approach in a bar.

Do you think women make wine differently, or make different wine from men? If so, how?

I don’t think women make different wines from men. I think women have a different approach, are perhaps more detail-oriented, but everyone has their own style that contributes to great, unique wines. When I make a wine, there are no recipes or protocols. Every year is different. The grapes are different, so it’s important to do what’s best at every phase of the wine. What I want is not a wine people like, but a wine that speaks of a place, and has personality and balance.

Alexandra Boudrot, Cellarmaster, Pierre Sparr, Alsace, France

Born into a winegrowing family in Nuits-St-Georges, Boudrot was exposed to vineyard work at a young age. She focused on science and viticulture before she studied winemaking at the University of Dijon. After she earned the Diplôme National d’Oenologie (National Diploma of Oenology), she moved to Alsace. She started at the Oenological and Winemaking Council, and then transitioned in 2003 to a position at Cave de Beblenheim. There, Boudrot helped growers develop environmentally sustainable growing methods. Boudrot started at Pierre Sparr for the 2015 vintage.

As a female in the wine industry, have you dealt with gender-related challenges?

After my studies, I took a job as a vineyard consultant, providing the best advice on producing beautiful grapes to the growers supplying wineries. The first years were challenging, but not due gender. Rather, because of my youth. It can be difficult explaining to experienced professionals that what they’ve done for decades could be done better, differently.

How have things changed, or not changed, for women in your region?

In Alsace, most wineries are run by men, but things have changed over the past few years. Today, we have more women heading wineries or becoming oenologists than ever before. Of course, there is still a lot to do, but I’m encouraged by this growth in female leadership.

Is there one woman, in the industry or outside of it, who has inspired you throughout your career?

During my studies, I had the opportunity to visit the Domaine Joseph Drouhin . That’s where I met the first female oenologist of Burgundy, Laurence Jobard, who was quite amazing.