• 1 cup chickpea flour
• ½ teaspoon baking powder
• ½ teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper
• 2 scallions, minced
• 1 cup fine-diced celery
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• Celery raita (recipe below), for serving

Whisk first six ingredients in bowl. Add 1 cup water, and whisk until very smooth. Cover with dish towel and set aside 1 hour. Whisk in scallions and celery.

Heat griddle or nonstick pan over medium heat, and coat lightly with olive oil. Make pancakes about 5 inches in diameter. Cook until golden brown, 2–3 minutes per side. Serve warm, with raita. Serves 2.

• 1 cup Greek yogurt
• ½ cup fine-minced celery
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper
• ½ teaspoon ground cumin
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

In bowl, beat yogurt with fork until smooth. Stir in all remaining ingredients until well incorporated.

Malat 2015 Höhlgraben Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal); 92 points, $27.

Grüner Veltliner is a classic choice with Indian food, and its crisp herbal freshness is a natural with celery as well. This wine features notes of arugula and lovage, an herb that tastes of celery inflected with piquant lime zest. The result is a spicy and irresistibly refreshing wine that will pair harmoniously with the dish.