While fresh scallions are a wonderful addition to a great many dishes, a light char adds a depth and complexity of flavor often overlooked in this basic cooking staple. Butter, lemon and salt are the only other ingredients you need to make this tasty, yet simple, condiment.
- 3 scallions, trimmed, coarsely chopped
- ¼ cup softened unsalted butter
- 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
- ½ teaspoon kosher salt
- 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest.
Warm large cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Add scallions. Stirring once or twice, cook until tender and just charred, about 5 minutes. Let cool.
Chop scallions until fine and transfer to small bowl. Add butter, lemon juice, kosher salt and lemon zest. Mash together with fork to make compound butter.
There’s no way around it: This dish is rich. But the lemon-tinged acidity and smoky, pungent scallions balance out butter. Liz Martinez, beverage director at Chicago’s Purple Pig, says the Nino Negri 2014 Ca’Brione Bianco (Terrazze Retiche di Sondrio)—a combination of late-ripening Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay with a touch of Incrocio Manzoni, and Nebbiolo—complements all those elements. “This wine hits all of the notes that a white Burgundy would, but is much more layered,” she says. “The sunny notes of preserved lemon provide the acid, cutting through the plush buttery sauce, and just a touch of tannin in the wine help[s] to keep the decadent union at bay.”