South A Scramble
Courtesy Liza Hinman, chef/owner, The Spinster Sisters, Santa Rosa, CA
With a focus on Sonoma County cuisine, Liza Hinman, chef at The Spinster Sisters, combines locally grown ingredients and international influences to create an ever-changing menu of imaginative fare. This deceptively simple yet delicious dish is named after the Santa Rosa street that the restaurant calls home.
- 10 large eggs
- 3 tablespoons heavy cream or milk
- 2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 4 slices bacon, diced
- 2 tablespoons canola oil
- ¼ cup thin-sliced yellow onion
- ⅔ cup diced zucchini
- ½ cup heirloom cherry tomatoes, halved
- 3 tablespoons chèvre-style goat cheese
- 6 basil leaves, cut into ribbons
- 1 tablespoon thin-sliced chives
- 1 tablespoon fine-chopped parsley
- Black pepper, to taste
Crack eggs into medium bowl. Add cream or milk and 1½ teaspoons salt. Whisk thoroughly to combine, and set aside.
Warm nonstick sauté pan over medium heat. Add bacon and cook, stirring occasionally. Transfer to paper towel–lined plate. Set aside.
Add 1 tablespoon oil to pan. Add onion and ¼ teaspoon salt. Reduce heat to low. Stir onions often until they begin to brown. Remove onions, and wipe pan clean.
Return pan to medium heat. Add zucchini, and cook until it begins to soften, 3–4 minutes. Sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt. Add cherry tomatoes, and return cooked bacon and onions to pan. Cook for 1 minute.
Raise heat to medium-high. Pour in egg mixture and allow to set for 45 seconds. Stir gently with rubber spatula until eggs are scrambled and cooked through. Sprinkle with goat cheese and herbs. Toss to incorporate, and remove from heat. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Serves 6.
Ela Jean Beedle, who’s the wine buyer for The Spinster Sisters, suggests Suriol Brut Nature Rosat Cava, a sparkling rosé from Spain. “An ideal balance of bright fruit and savory minerality will stand up to the rich bacon and deep caramelized onion and lift up more delicate flavors of sweet tomatoes and peppery basil. Also, what’s brunch without bubbles?”
To expand your options, stay in the Old World with a Crémant d’Alsace rosé. These 100% Pinot Noir sparklers have little to no dosage added, so they’re bracingly fresh with poppy red-fruit notes to play off the tomatoes and herbs. Like the Cava recommended above, they’re made in the traditional method, with a minimum of nine months spent aging on lees, giving them a robust body to handle the bacon and cheese.