This unabashedly luxurious restaurant, named for its Alsatian executive chef, takes a surprisingly democratic approach to wine. It features food-friendly options from all regions (with a wink to Alsace) at all price points. The beverage director, Emilie Perrier, celebrates winemakers, telling their stories on the list and inviting them to weekly staff meetings.

Riot Dish: “The smoked sturgeon and sauerkraut tart with caviar mousseline is a must and a signature dish that should always be on the menu—and it is amazing to pair with wine or cider.”