As an ardent defender of the Champagne flute, these are tough times. The headlines pro\u00ad\u00adclaim, \u201cThe Tragic Flute: Why You\u2019re Drinking Champagne All Wrong.\u201d Sommeliers sneer and say, \u201cFlutes? We\u2019re adults. We use real wine glasses.\u201d\r\n\r\nWaving the flag for flutes has brought me notoriety. Whenever an anti-flute missive is published, friends love to tag me and rub it in my face. Most recently? \u201cYou don\u2019t use flutes,\u201d says Maggie Henriquez, president and CEO of Krug. \u201cYou see, using a flute is like going to a concert with ear plugs.\u201d\r\n\r\nEt tu, Krug?\r\n\r\nWell, I\u2019m doubling down. The flute is the ideal glass for Champagne, and I\u2019ve called in a couple experts to help make the case.\r\n\r\nWhile flute haters concede that its shape is ideal for bubble promotion, their main gripe is it \u201cstifles\u201d Champagne\u2019s scent. You should swirl the wine to release its bouquet, like a fine still wine.\r\n\r\nCurious, I contacted Avery Gilbert, author of the book What the Nose Knows: The Science of Scent in Everyday Life. He pointed to a research paper published in the journal Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences in 2009.\r\n\r\n\u201cThe basic idea is that aroma molecules in Champagne are actively carried to the surface by the bubbles,\u201d says Gilbert. \u201cThe bursting bubbles release aroma-enriched aerosol. My take is that for the best aroma perception, you\u2019d want to maximize the bubble flux through an air column with a cross-section similar to that of the nostrils. So I\u2019d go with flute over tulip, and hands down over coupe.\u201d\r\n\r\nNext up on my list of bubbly scholars was David Gire, assistant professor at the University of Washington\u2019s psychology department, who analyzed wine-specific olfaction literature that covers linguistics, psychology and sensory neuroscience.\r\n\r\nHe believes that \u201cthe everyday magic of multisensory integration\u201d and the work of the trigeminal nerve, which is separate from our sense of smell and ferries sensations from our face to our brain, overcome the limited headspace of a flute. Basically, the visual spectacle is key.\r\n\r\n\u201c[V]ision accounts for a large portion of our perception of flavor\u2014just try eating a steak that has artificially been colored green,\u201d says Gire. \u201cThe iconic appearance of Champagne [is] in a flute, which will tend to reignite our memories of celebrations past. It is not just that these factors compensate for reduced smell, but rather that they can make the smell and taste of the Champagne better.\u201d\r\n\r\nIs there one right glass for a wine? That\u2019s up for discussion, but surely there\u2019s nothing wrong with the Champagne flute. It will remain in my head, and my heart, as the preeminent pleasure-giver. After all, it\u2019s not really about swirling and sniffing, just drinking and enjoying.\r\n\r\n\r\nFill Your Flute With Fizz\r\nFrom value sparkling wine to celebratory Champagne, take flute with three bottles.\r\nFranck Besson NV Ros\u00e9 Granit M\u00e9thode Traditionnelle Sparkling Gamay (France); $22. It\u2019s #GoGamayGo with the ideal accompaniment to brunch.\r\n\r\nGerman Gilabert NV Brut Nature Reserva (Cava); $19. If you like your bubbles on the racy side, this Spanish sparkler is for you.\r\n\r\nLaherte Fr\u00e8res NV Ros\u00e9 de Meunier Extra Brut (Champagne); $50.\u00a0Beautiful wine, beautiful label. Nothing cooler than 100% Pinot Meunier Champagne.