Ros\u00e9 is known for its accessibility, and budget bottles abound. But some producers continue to create higher-end offerings, far from the straightforward, sometimes single-dimension pale-pink offerings that dominate retail shelves. Winemakers are utilizing wood and cru vineyards to showcase the versatility and depth the style can offer. Some even have surprising ageability.\r\n\r\nIf you're looking to treat yourself and indulge properly while keeping things pink, here are some of our favorite luxury ros\u00e9s of Southern France, from Tavel and Bandol to the wide offerings of C\u00f4tes de Provence.\r\n\r\nDomaine de la Mordor\u00e9e 2019 La Reine des Bois (Tavel); $45, 94 points. Intensely fruity yet fascinatingly complex, La Reine des Bois consistently reigns as one of the best wines from Tavel. This vintage offers profound, mouthwatering black-cherry and cassis flavors accented by strikes of crushed stone and sizzling black spice. It's lush and velvety through a long, delicately tannic finish. Lovely already, the wine will drink beautifully through 2023. Kysela P\u00e8re et Fils. \u2014Anna Lee C. Iijima\r\n\r\nDomaines Ott 2019 Ch\u00e2teau Romassan Ros\u00e9 (Bandol); $55, 93 points. The dominance of Bandol's own Mourv\u00e8dre grape has given this wine density and structure as well as plenty of red fruits and a texture that will allow it to age. Drink the wine from late 2020. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. \u2014Roger Voss\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nCh\u00e2teau d'Esclans 2018 Garrus Ros\u00e9 (C\u00f4tes de Provence); $100, 93 points. This wine takes the concept of Provence ros\u00e9 to the extreme. The wood aging is beautifully integrated while a whisper of toastiness adds to the richness and concentration. A deliciously textured ros\u00e9, its weight and density make it perfect for food. Enjoy in the near term. Shaw-Ross International Importers. \u2014R.V.\r\n\r\nCh\u00e2teau Sainte Roseline 2019 Cuv\u00e9e la Chapelle de Sainte Roseline Ros\u00e9 (C\u00f4tes de Provence); $40, 92 points. Produced from a selection of the parcels on the estate, this wine evokes the rich warmth of Provence. Herbal hints and touches of wood from fermentation give the wine an extra dimension and complexity. The wine is made for food. Drink from late 2020. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. \u2014R.V.\r\n\r\nCommanderie de Peyrassol 2019 Le Clos Peyrassol Ros\u00e9 (C\u00f4tes de Provence); $56, 91 points. The Knights Templar founded Commanderie in the 13th century and grapes have been grown here since. Philippe Austruy has owned the property since 2001 This wine is soft and ripe, with a smooth texture. Acidity comes from orange-peel and red-currant flavors that permeate the wine and give it a bright aftertaste. Drink now. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. \u2014R.V.\r\n\r\nCh\u00e2teau Minuty 2019 Rose et Or Ros\u00e9 (C\u00f4tes de Provence); $55, 92 points. Grenache and a touch of Tibouren come together in this soft, rich and generous wine. Acidity is beautifully integrated into the fruits and rounded texture, making this a great food wine. Drink from late 2020. Vintus LLC. \u2014R.V.\r\n\r\nCh\u00e2teau L\u00e9oube 2019 L\u00e9oube la Londe Ros\u00e9 (C\u00f4tes de Provence La Londe); $48, 92 points. Textured and ripe, this wine from cru vineyards close to the sea is rich and full of fruit. Pale in color, it has a juicy character, richly structured and complex, making it a real food ros\u00e9. Drink from late 2020. Chambers & Chambers. \u2014R.V.