In Eastern France, between Burgundy and the Swiss border, sits Jura\u2014a small region known for an unusual wine called Vin Jaune. Made from the indigenous grape Savagnin, Vin Jaune translates to \u201cyellow wine\u201d and, as the story goes, was first created when a winemaker discovered a forgotten barrel in the back of their cellar.\nFrom this legend comes the tradition of Vin Jaune\u2019s 60-month barrel aging process, during which time the wine remains untouched, untopped and watched with a vigilant eye.\n\u201cWe mainly monitor the yeasts that make up the veil,\u201d says M\u00e9lanie Dugois, winemaker of Domaine Dugois. \u201cThe biggest problem would be that the veil dies, and the wine isn\u2019t drawn off in time.\u201d\nThe \u201cveil\u201d refers to a thin layer of yeast that forms at the surface of the wine, a technique known locally as sous voile. If you\u2019re familiar with Sherry\u2019s flor, then this will ring a bell: The yeast simultaneously protects the wine from direct contact with air and allows for slow, controlled oxidation.\nThe winemakers in the regional appellations of Arbois, C\u00f4tes du Jura, L\u2019\u00c9toile and Ch\u00e2teau-Chalon reject the use of modern technology\u2014a move that preserves the traditional character of the wine at the expense of time and profit. That the wine ages in non-temperature-controlled cellars is a source of both pride and discovery. In doing so, winemakers have found that where the wine rests is just as significant as when and how.\n\u201cWe will choose cold cellars for aging to bring notes of apples and almonds to the wine,\u201d says Dugois. Conversely, \u201cattics will be chosen to obtain yellow wines rich in spicy notes such as curry or even more pronounced nutty flavors.\u201d Then, an assemblage is created to produce a remarkable wine that combines the nuances of both techniques.\nIf ever there was a wine to be savored, this is it. \u201cNo yellow wine is alike,\u201d says Dugois. \u201cIt is a rich and surprising universe, each sip bringing something new as the wine opens.\n\nPRODUCERS TO LOOK FOR\nBenedicte & Stephane Tissot\nDomaine Dugois\nDomaine Rolet\nDomaine de Montbourgeau\nJacques Puffeney\nMaison Pierre Overnoy\n\n\nThis article originally appeared in the June/July 2022 issue of\u00a0Wine Enthusiast\u00a0magazine. Click\u00a0here\u00a0to subscribe today!