In South Korea, people know how to drink. It\u2019s part of daily life: a way to deal with a dictatorial boss, screaming in-laws and the looming threat of nuclear Armageddon.\r\n\r\nIn Korea\u2019s culinary capital of Jeonju, a milky rice wine called makgeolli is the beverage of choice. It\u2019s about 6\u20138% alcohol by volume and has no clear English translation\u2014a government-led initiative to give makgeolli an English name resulted in the moniker \u201cdrunken rice.\u201d\r\n\r\nSix friends and I took the bullet train from our homes near Seoul to Jeonju, to spend an evening tasting this offering of Korean culture. Throughout Jeonju, makgeolli houses provide one of the world\u2019s most unique drinking experiences, and Gamnamugol\u2014\u201cPersimmon Tree Valley\u201d\u2014is one of the finest.\r\n\r\nIt\u2019s a small shop covered in graffiti and torn movie posters. And there\u2019s not a trace of English anywhere. But don\u2019t let that worry you. There are only two choices to order: Option 1 and Option 2, the latter a bit more expensive.\r\n\r\nSo if you\u2019re able to count on two fingers, you\u2019ve got all the qualifications to order makgeolli in Jeonju.\r\nKoreans don't drink without anjou, or "food to keep the drink down."\r\nIt comes in great brass kettles, which are weathered and proud, just like Korea. The rice in the makgeolli never fully dissolves. Clouds form in the porcelain bowls as you pour.\r\n\r\nDrunken rice comes in all sorts of flavors and consistencies, and they aren\u2019t all great. This one was cold, thinner, tangy and refreshing. Also a bit sweet, with a slight banana flavor.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nKoreans don\u2019t drink without anjou, or \u201cfood to keep the drink down.\u201d It comes out in great steaming dishes from the kitchen, and is included with Options 1 and 2.\r\n\r\nWe got kimchijeon, a flat pancake cooked with flour, kimchi, vegetables and seafood that is dipped in soy sauce. There were two huge fists of jokbal (pigs\u2019 feet), the pork coming off the knuckles tender and flaky. Fresh oysters and grilled mackerel arrived, along with steamed squids that were sliced up to dip in red pepper paste.\r\n\r\nBut the pi\u00e8ce de r\u00e9sistance was the kimchi tofu, which involved fiery, fermented kimchi served with thick slices of fried pork and crumbling, housemade tofu. It\u2019s best eaten with a spoon, we learned, as we dropped the mess all over the table, ourselves and each other.\r\n\r\nBehind us, a young couple licked each other\u2019s fingers underneath a sign that read in Korean, \u201cWater is self-serve. Life is self-serve. Love is self-serve.\u201d\r\n\r\nDrunken rice, on the other hand, is brought by the management.