Ros\u00e9s have become a strong player in the wine world, as have \u201corange\u201d wines (skin-macerated white wines with an orange hue). But there\u2019s a gorgeous, copper-colored wine that dances the line between orange and pink, and is gaining popularity among American wine consumers and producers alike: Ramato.\r\n\r\nWith origins in Italy\u2019s northeastern province of Friuli Venezia Giulia, Ramato (Italian for \u201cauburn\u201d or \u201ccopper\u201d) wines are produced by macerating Pinot Grigio grape must with its skins. The skins\u2019 pink hue give the wines color from a semi-pale pink to dark orange, depending on maceration time.\r\n\r\nRamato wines are distinctive for their baking spice, dried fruit, tropical fruit and herbal aromas. On the palate, they offer more dried fruit with stone fruit skins and spice. The wines can display good structure and tannin, making them a match for diverse styles of cuisines and dishes.\r\n\r\nJames Christopher Tracy, partner and winemaker at Long Island-based Channing Daughters Winery, began to make skin-fermented white wines in 2004. Today, the winery boasts five Rosati in its portfolio.\r\n\r\n\u201c[Ramato wines] reflect our place and offer a unique perspective and drinking experience,\u201d he says.\r\n\r\nThe Pinot Grigio that grows at both Channing Daughters\u2019 home farm in Bridgehampton and at the Mudd West Vineyard on the Long Island\u2019s North Fork are very well-situated for Ramato. \u201cOur moderate maritime climate provides the growing conditions for ripe healthy grapes that have the analytical and organoleptic qualities needed,\u201d says Tracy.\r\n\r\nThe winery harvests by hand, destems and stomps its Pinot Grigio by foot before the juice ferments with wild yeasts in small bins. It sees about three weeks of skin contact and is matured in large, old French and Slovenian oak puncheons for 18 months.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nIn Dundee, Oregon, Cameron Winery owner and winemaker, John Paul Cameron, creates a Ramato at his estate. \u201cSince I had always disliked Pinot Grigio as a white wine, I decided to look into it further,\u201d he says.\r\n\r\nCameron says that Pinot Grigio must hang on the vines longer to develop the color necessary to create a Ramato. In doing so, the skins begin to lose some of their bitter tannins, he says, which makes the wine more accessible and drinkable.\r\n\r\nCameron crushes the fruit and extracts the must for four to five hours before he presses. After fermentation in large barrels, the wine ages six to eight months in neutral oak barrels, which allows unstable proteins to separate from the wine in barrel.\r\n\r\n\u201cI have experienced great enthusiasm on the part of consumers with comments such as, \u2018If I knew that Pinot Gris could taste like this, I'd like Pinot Gris.\u2019 \u201d says Cameron.\r\n\r\nHardy Wallace, co-owner and winemaker at California-based Dirty & Rowdy, says that skin-contact wines made from the right varieties can amplify both varietal character and soil expression. Although Dirty & Rowdy doesn\u2019t grow Pinot Grigio, it began to blend a portion of skin-contact wine into their S\u00e9millon-based whites in 2011.\r\n\r\n\u201cWe loved the bump we\u2019d get from the skins, and the lower pH we\u2019d get from the direct to press,\u201d he says. \u201cIn a space where we are trying to make the most complete and distinctive expression of a place in space, a little bit of skins can go a long way.\u201d\r\n\r\nFor ros\u00e9 aficionados who seek something off the beaten path, or those a little over the ros\u00e9 trend, Ramato could be your next obsession.