If you\u2019ve heard of Furmint, a Hungarian white grape, you probably know that it\u2019s one of the primary varieties used in sweet Tokaji Asz\u00fa wine. What you might not know is that it\u2019s also being used by young winemakers in Hungary to make dry, crisp white wines that are attracting global notice.\r\n\r\nFurmint\u2019s origin is firmly planted in Hungary\u2019s Tokaj region. There are about 10,000 acres devoted to Furmint there, and until recently, all of it was used to make sweet botrytized wines similar to Sauternes from France. That, however,\u00a0 is changing.\r\n\r\nThe Great Tokaj Wine Auction, sponsored by the Confr\u00e9rie de Tokaj, featured a number of dry wines last year. Although winemakers continue to produce the sweet wines of their forebears, much of the Furmint grown is made into fragrant and refreshing dry wines, ideal as an ap\u00e9ritif or paired with salty and spicy foods.\r\n\r\nAuthor and wine critic Hugh Johnson co-founded the Royal Tokaji Wine Company, which produces The Oddity, a dry Furmint available in the U.S. The producer describes it as \u201cChenin Blanc with attitude.\u201d\r\n\r\nFurmint ranges in color from pale straw to light amber, with aromas of pineapple, lemon blossom, orange rind, ripe pear, white peach, yellow peach and apricot.\r\n\r\nRipe, unbotrytized grapes are used to produce the dry version, though if botrytized grapes find their way into the fermentation tanks, that adds another level of interest and complexity, with scents of honeycomb and jasmine.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nNo matter: The wines are still \u201cbalanced and unique\u2026with refreshing acidity, zesty mandarin orange fruit and a light body,\u201d says Scott Harper, MS, a champion of the grape, who offers Furmint on his list at Bristol Bar & Grille in Louisville, Kentucky.\r\n\r\nDry Furmint plays nice with seafood, shellfish, raw oysters, sushi, spicy foods, chicken and most vegetables. Keith Goldston, MS, wine director at Washington DC\u2019s Rosewood Hotel, recommends it with lemon-roasted chicken and broccolini.\u00a0 His list includes a Furmint from Istv\u00e1n Szepsy,\u00a0 and he said he plans to add three more.\r\n\r\n\r\nRecommended Wines\r\nBarta 2013 \u00d6reg Kir\u00e1ly D\u0171l\u0151 M\u00e1d Furmint (Tokaj); $30, 91 points.\u00a0Aromas of Turkish delight, marzipan and lemon blossom lead the way to rich, ripe flavors of green apple, dried pineapple and lemon zest. This well-made wine has a strong mineral backbone with a brisk, clean finish. Editors\u2019 Choice.\r\n\r\nB\u00e9res 2015 L\u0151sce Vineyard Estate Bottled\u00a0 Dry Selection Furmint (Tokaj); $20, 90 points. This zesty dry Furmint leads the way with aromas of lemon juice and freshly cut pineapple. It has delightful flavors of apple, peach and Bartlett pear with a nice amount of heft on the palate. There's a great deal of minerality and the finish is creamy and brisk at the same time.\r\n\r\nGr\u00f3f Degenfeld 2015 Zomborka Furmint (Tokaj); $20, 90 points. This well-made dry Furmint has a complex bouquet of citrus flowers, apple blossom and freshly cut white peach. In the mouth, there are flavors of peach, pineapple and passion fruit that dance on your tongue before the crisp acidic finish.\r\n\r\nSamuel Tinon 2015 Szent Tam\u00e1s Dry Furmint (Tokaj); $36, 90 points. This dry Furmint hails from one of Tokaj's most famous vineyards\u2014the Saint Thomas vineyard in the town of Mad. It has a complex bouquet of honeysuckle, mango blossoms and lemon flowers that lead to flavors of lemon rind and white peach. It is well balanced and has a crisp, clean finish.\r\n\r\nKikelet 2015 Furmint (Tokaj); $25, 89 points. This wine is made from 100% Furmint and has an intriguing bouquet of jasmine and lemon blossom. It is crisp and acidic on the palate with pleasant flavors of lemon zest and lime juice.