Whether the Finger Lakes, Long Island, Hudson Valley or beyond, the best wines in New York are still made by small, typically family-owned wineries with limited technological shortcuts and in miniscule volume.\r\n\r\nTo put production figures into perspective, rising stars in the Finger Lakes like Nathan Kendall make less than 4,000 cases a year. The regional heavyweight, Hermann J. Wiemer, produces about 17,000 cases annually. Yet even combined, these efforts are hardly a drop in the bucket when compared to large-scale American producers who make upward of 10 million cases a year.\r\n\r\nOften priced under $20 at entry level, these wines represent a breed of painstakingly made, small-production pours that offer remakable value.\r\n\r\nWhile great wines can be made many ways, there\u2019s distinct value in wines made carefully in small quantities, directly reflecting the terroir, vintage and philosophies of their makers. Winemaker Fred Merwath\u2019s Rieslings at Hermann J. Wiemer reveal both the filigreed effect of grapes coaxed from a cool vintage as well as the plump nectar of an Indian summer. You can taste the complexity gained from patient lees aging in Nathan Kendall\u2019s Chardonnay or the nuanced texture of Pinot Noir made without correction via fining agents.\r\n\r\nAs recent tastings have shown, wines from New York offer a dizzying array of diversity. Classics like Riesling and Merlot are featured alongside fine sparkling wines and rarities like Gamay and Gr\u00fcner Veltliner. Often priced under $20 at entry level, these wines represent a breed of painstakingly made, small-production pours that provide remarkable value.\r\n\r\nCall it clich\u00e9, but we value wine because it offers something unique: a time capsule expressive of a singular terroir or vintage. You can taste the struggle and the glory. It connects you to the hearts of the people and places that crafted it, and only further enhances your drinking experience. We\u2019ll toast to that.\r\n\r\n\r\nRecommended Wines for Under $20\r\nRiesling\r\n Hermann J. Wiemer 2015 Dry Riesling (Seneca Lake); $19, 93 points. Wiemer\u2019s standard dry Riesling is an impeccable value for a wine that offers such density of fruit and minerality. While dry in style, it\u2019s a luscious, deeply fruity wine studded with tangerine and stone-fruit flavors glazed in honey and nectar. It\u2019s unctuous and ripe, but finishes with a cool, steel-edged persistence. Editors\u2019 Choice.\r\n\r\n Keuka Spring 2016 Semi-Sweet Riesling (Finger Lakes); $17, 90 points. While bountiful in ripe, plush nectarine, peach and melon, this medium-sweet Riesling off sets its sunny side with dazzling acidity. Light on its feet yet deeply penetrating, it\u2019s an effortless people pleaser offering balance and satisfaction.\r\nGew\u00fcrztraminer\r\nBellangelo 2014 Gew\u00fcrztraminer (Seneca Lake); $17, 90 points. Delightfully fresh, this off-dry Gew\u00fcrztraminer wafts of zesty tangerine peels, lychee and blossom. Sweet citrus flavors are concentrated but brisk, tinged by hints of crushed mineral and a whisper of vanilla cream. Drink now through 2021.\r\n\r\n Red Newt Cellars 2014 Gew\u00fcrztraminer (Finger Lakes); $16, 90 points. Pristine grapefruit, lemon and cantaloupe perfume this bold, fruit-forward Gew\u00fcrztraminer. While off dry in style and densely concentrated in apricot and citrus flavors, it\u2019s balanced keenly in acidity and finishes with mineral refreshment.\r\nChardonnay\r\n Hosmer 2016 Chardonnay (Cayuga Lake); $16, 90 points. A small proportion of oak fermentation on this intensely primary Chardonnay lends depth and a rounded mouthfeel to its buoyantly fresh peach and tangerine characteristics. Cutting grapefruit and lime acidity refreshes the palate, guiding a long, pristine finish. Enjoy young to maximize its fresh appeal.\r\n\r\nMillbrook 2016 Unoaked Chardonnay (Hudson River Region); $18, 89 points. Millbrook\u2019s unoaked Chardonnay shares much of the luscious tropical fruit and fleshy mouthfeel of the oaked bottling, but without the embellishment of oak maturation. It\u2019s still quite a creamy, indulgent sip with a lingering lactic finish.\r\nGamay Noir\r\n Sheldrake Point 2016 Estate Bottled Gamay Noir (Finger Lakes); $18, 88 points. More floral and ethereal than the producer\u2019s reserve bottling, this delicately concentrated Gamay suggests juicy, crisp red cherries and strawberries. It\u2019s a pretty, subtly structured wine with softer, yielding tannins.\r\nRed Blend\r\nSuhru 2013 Ember (North Fork of Long Island); $19, 89 points. Ripe, sun-kissed plum and blackberry flavors are crisply balanced in this juicy, velvet-textured red. It\u2019s lavishly oaky, streaked with layers of spice, toast and caramel, but maintains elegance and brightness throughout. The finish is marked by fine-grained but penetrating tannins.