Just off the coast of British Columbia's mainland, the largest of the Southern Gulf Islands (at 74 square miles) is Salt Spring Island, a utopia for those who savor organic and locally harvested foods. There are no traffic lights or franchise businesses\u2014and plenty of room to eat your way across the island, which is snug against the east side of Vancouver Island and easily accessible from Vancouver or Victoria by either seaplane or ferry.\r\nWhile the year-round population is comfortable at around 10,000, during summer it swells to many more. Autumn is a perfect time to visit, when foods are in-season and the crowds have gone. For proof, and to see a lot in limited time, visit Centennial Park on Saturday, when farmers and craftspeople converge on the Village Market. The market has been going strong for more than 30 years.\r\nHastings House (www.hastingshouse.com), a 22-acre property in Ganges Harbor with just 18 suites, invites guests to catch their own Dungeness crabs from the local waters (through September 30 by reserving a special package, which includes two night's accommodations, a four-course dinner of crab specialties, a recipe book and measuring tool). Chef Marcel Kauer prepares a five-course dinner inside a replica 11th-century English Manor House with local items like Salt Spring lamb, goat cheese, herbs and produce from his garden. Or, order a picnic basket from the kitchen\u2014if it's Saturday, head to the market in Ganges Harbor and meet the farmers, too\u2014and head to one of the natural areas or surrounding islands for hiking or sea kayaking. There's also a 62.5-mile cycling route.\r\n\r\nSalt Spring Vineyard\r\n\r\nThe island has two wineries\u2014Salt Spring Island Vineyards (www.saltspringvineyards.com), which hosts guests at its bed and breakfast; and Garry Oaks Winery (www.garryoakswine.com), a 100-year-old orchard turned grape grower using organic principles and turning out wines that include Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. Salt Spring Island Vineyards began harvesting grapes, which now includes Leon Millot and Pinot Noir, using no herbicides in 2002, and Garry Oaks the same year. Both have tasting rooms open to visitors.\r\nEven the coffee on this island has ethical purpose. Salt Spring Coffee Co.(www.saltspringcoffee.com), a roaster on the\u00a0island, delivers its beans using biodiesel-powered vehicles and introduced Canada's first carbon-neutral coffee. There is a caf\u00e9 in Ganges Harbor. Other local food stops include Salt Spring Island Cheese Co. (goat cheese produced on a working goat farm), Moonstruck Organic Cheese (www.moonstruckcheese.com) (produces nine cheeses, including ash-ripened camembert and four blue cheeses) and Apple Luscious Organic Orchards (www.appleluscious.com)\u00a0(14 organic varieties).\r\n\r\n\r\nAbout 50 artists live and work in their studios on Salt Spring Island, opening those up to the public. Their wares range from textile arts to carved furniture to tabletop ceramics. Visit www.saltspringstudiotour.com to browse through a directory. Many are closed during the late fall and winter months.\r\n\r\nFor more information visit www.saltspringisland.org.