Technically speaking, all French wines are vins de France. But some choose to be officially labeled Vin de France, a relatively new category of generally low-priced wines. Established in 2010, the category replaced Vin de Table, the lowest rung on the quality ladder.\r\n\r\nProducers of all levels and legacies are using the new designation, including some of France\u2019s most heralded names, who are offering quality wines at varying price points.\r\n\r\nOne such example is Margaux\u2019s celebrated Ch\u00e2teau Palmer. Ch\u00e2teau Palmer, however, is no stranger to the concept: It created its Historical XIX Century Blend red wine in 2004, harkening back to the era when, in poor vintages, rich Rh\u00f4ne Valley wine was added to the lighter Bordeaux.\r\n\r\nUnder the old system, Ch\u00e2teau Palmer circumvented label restrictions against mentioning vintage by printing a lot number, \u201cL20.04.\u201d (a sly reference to the harvest year) on the wine\u2019s label. That coding continues under the new classification, the most recent vintage being L20.14. Its price\u2014the highest for any Vin de France wine\u2014ranges from $250 to $300 and\u00a0demonstrates the legitimacy of this new category.\r\n\r\nAt the other end of the spectrum are white, red and ros\u00e9 wines from the Perrin family, owners of the acclaimed Ch\u00e2teau de Beaucastel. While their signature winery makes premium Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape that can sell for $100 or more, the family\u2019s long expertise in blending Rh\u00f4ne Valley and Provence grapes delivers the value that was originally intended for the Vin de France category in their La Vieille Ferme label, priced from $6 to $10.\r\n\r\nThe Institut National de l\u2019Origine et de la Qualit\u00e9 (INAO), the organization that regulates French agriculture, didn\u2019t foresee that the category would be used to solve a legal problem. But that\u2019s just what Jacky Blot, of Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups, and Fran\u00e7ois Chidaine, of Clos Baudoin, did. The Vouvray appellation was rescinded for their wines, which were grown in Vouvray but made at their wineries in Montlouis. Faced with decertification of their valuable Vouvray Appellation d\u2019Origine Contr\u00f4l\u00e9e (AOC) wines, Blot and Chidaine decided to label them as Vin de France. Rather than selling into grocery chains at lower prices, they kept the Vouvray appellation prices of $30 to $34, giving consumers another reason to look beyond the humble label.