For centuries, the region east of Brussels was renowned for witbiers, or \u201cwhite beers,\u201d cloudy and smooth from unmalted wheat. Spiced with orange peel and coriander, they were lightly tart, hugely aromatic and, by the late 1950s, extinct.\r\n\r\nEnter Pierre Celis, a milkman who, in 1965, began to brew witbier in his barn, in the Belgian village of Hoegaarden. His revival was a smash.\r\n\r\nA couple of decades later, a fire felled the brewery. Celis took loans from other breweries to rebuild. One pressured him to change his recipe, but he sold the business instead. He later took his family to Austin, Texas, where he opened a brewery in 1992, making witbier with yeast he smuggled in his socks. A decade later, unable to keep up with demand, the brand was sold and shuttered. Then Celis died in 2011.\r\n\r\n\u201cI wanted to continue my dad\u2019s legacy,\u201d says his daughter, Christine.\r\n\r\nShe bought back the name Celis Brewery and opened its latest incarnation in Austin last summer. The formula is unchanged,\u00ad and the yeast delivers its trademark tartness and fine fizz.\r\n\r\nThanks to the Celis clan, witbier is deeply ingrained in American brewing. Traditional approaches are widely available, but breweries also use witbier as a template for innovation. Here are five great wits to gather.\r\n\r\n\r\nWitbiers to look for\r\nCelis White\r\nCelis Brewery, Austin, TX \r\nThis is based on Pierre Celis\u2019s original recipe. There\u2019s a pleasant tartness, while coriander and orange peel lend a spicy, citrusy verve.\r\nFunky Wit\r\nPerennial Artisan Ales, St. Louis, MO\r\nAt least one year in oak foeders provides an enlivening acidity and lush coconut notes for this beer.\r\nFlorida Cracker Belgian-Style White Ale\r\nCigar City Brewing, Tampa, FL\r\nNamed after the cattle-herding Cracker Cowboys, this hazy witbier has a neat bubblegum note that plays well with the Valencia orange peel.\r\nWhite Thai\r\nWestbrook Brewing Co., Mt. Pleasant, SC\r\nThe brewery uses ginger, lemongrass and lemony Sorachi Ace hops, which create the perfect companion to curry.\r\nWhite Rascal\r\nAvery Brewing Co., Boulder, CO\r\nAt this year\u2019s prestigious World Beer Cup, this took silver. The unfiltered witbier is a zesty homage to the original, right down to its\u00a0Hoegaarden yeast.