Non-Alcoholic

Italy’s beloved bitter digestif, amaro, isn’t for everyone. Those who love it, however, crave the bracing bitter punch it delivers. Now, the category is attracting the zero-proof crowd. Non-alcoholic drinks are having a moment in the sun, from wine and spirits, to beers and cocktails, and amaro is no different. If you’re not drinking alcohol for a night, a season or forever—you’re in luck: There are more and better non-alcoholic amaro options than ever before. What Is Amari? The word amari (amaro as singular) literally translates to “bitter” in Italian, but the term applies loosely to all sorts of bittersweet, herbal liqueurs. Amari are traditionally crafted by infusing grape brandies with a mix of flowers, tree bark, citrus peels, herbs and spices. Famous examples include vibrant red Campari, sweet and tangy Aperol, licorice-y Fernet-Branca and artichoke-forward Cynar. Amaro recipes are often closely guarded and dizzyingly complex. They tend to be sweetened with sugar syrup and aged in barrels or bottles, making for a silky texture and complex depth of flavor. Amaro first hit the market in Italy in the 1800s. They were originally billed as medicinal aids: All those barks and herbs were said to aid digestion and soothe the stomach. That’s why amari are often consumed as a digestif, aka a drink consumed after dinner. These days, however, amari are just as commonly enjoyed before dinner—in a spritz, Negroni or other pre-meal cocktail—as they are savored after a meal. What Is Non-Alcoholic Amari? Simply put, non-alcoholic amari are bitter digestifs that do not contain alcohol. The category faces some challenges in terms of acceptance. “What is that, root water?” asks Michael Snodgrass, CEO and partner at Las Vegas-based alcohol importer and distributer West Coast Beverages when asked about the trend. Others, however, are more enthusiastic. David Othenin-Girard, the spirits buyer at K&L Wine Merchants in Hollywood, California, sees the category as exciting and delicious. “You can get so much more unexpected flavor from non-alcohol amari,” he says. “There are even flavors you don’t necessarily get in alcoholic amari.” Othenin-Girard emphasizes that amari are, by nature, unique. “You can’t even make an alcoholic substitute for Campari,” he explains, as its recipe is a secret. This gives modern non-alcoholic spirit makers plenty of room to experiment and play. Some producers make claims that, true to tradition, the herbs, roots and teas in their non-alcoholic drinks can still make your tummy feel good. Today, there are more interesting amari options than ever. Hannah Selinger, a James Beard Award-nominated journalist and certified sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers, is a particular fan. She started cutting back on alcohol a few years ago, when she began suffering from migraines. “Ever since, I've been thrilled with the emerging options when it comes to NA beverages like amari,” she says. How to Drink Non-Alcoholic Amari “If you love cocktails, you can build on these [non-alcoholic amari] with tonics and juices for an equal, if not more enjoyable, experience than an alcoholic cocktail,” says Othenin-Girard. For example, Negroni Sbagliatos are hot right now. Making one with non-alcoholic amari can be a great way to turn down the ABV without sacrificing flavor. Alternatively, Othenin-Girard loves the woodsy Bitter Optimist Cali Amaro served simply over ice with a splash of grapefruit soda. “I love the bitter on bitter from the liqueur and the grapefruit,” he says. The big takeaway? “Don’t deprive yourself just because you’re going to take the night off from drinking,” Othenin-Girard urges. Ready to give these non-alcoholic options a try? Here are five excellent amari—sans booze—drinks pros swear by. 5 Non-Alcoholic Amari to Try Three Spirit Social Elixir Bitter Optimist Cali Amaro Tenneyson Black Ginger Ghia The Pathfinder