With the superb 1998 vintage now mostly in the market, there is no better time to enjoy the delicious red wines of the breathtaking southern Rh\u00f4ne Valley\u2014and don't overlook the whites and ros\u00e9s.\r\nThe southern Rh\u00f4ne vineyards are some of the most important in France for fans of character-packed wines. From a region of great beauty, littered with ancient ruins and bathed in sunshine for much of the year, the wines, with their exotic aromas and soft, ripe fruit, appeal instantly to lovers of rich reds and weighty whites.\r\nThe calling card for the area is the dry northern Mistral winds, which blow for at least 200 days a year. For the grape growers, this wind\u2014known to drive men and dogs mad\u2014is a blessing. Through it, nature offers a way to keep the grapes dry and healthy, without forcing growers to resort to much in the way of agricultural chemicals.\r\nFor visitors, there's something exhilarating about coming south to the Rh\u00f4ne. At an almost definable moment, somewhere south of Valence, the milky light of northern France gives way to the piercing luminescence of the Mediterranean. For years, I used to watch for an evocative road sign that announced simply, "Vous \u00eates en Provence." Today, that sign has been replaced by an announcement that you have entered the region of Provence-Alpes-C\u00f4te d'Azur, which is somewhat more bureaucratic, but carries the same welcoming meaning.\r\nSouth of that sign, the narrow Rh\u00f4ne Valley widens out. To the east, it is bounded by a strangely shaped ridge of rocks, called Les Dentelles de Montmirail. I used to think that the jagged outline of the Dentelles was being likened to teeth, until some helpful Frenchman told me the word actually meant the pins on a lace-making board. I'll always think of them as teeth, though.\r\nThis ridge shelters the eastern vineyards of the C\u00f4tes-du-Rh\u00f4ne. Standing on the ridge of Montmirail and looking west, a low hill in the distance marks Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape. To the far south, the massive battlements on a hill are those of the papal palace in Avignon. Through it all, the Rh\u00f4ne River flows slowly and majestically to the Mediterranean.\r\nEverything in the region is situated relatively close together. And between the landmarks lie vines, lots of vines. The southern Rh\u00f4ne is the second-largest wine area in France, after Bordeaux. Nearly 10,000 growers cultivate 100,000 acres of vineyards. Virtually every street corner in every small town reveals another wine cellar, urging you to stop and buy (direct sales are as important in the Rh\u00f4ne Valley as they are in Napa, even though the sales techniques are much more haphazard and relaxed; tastings are normally free). And it seems as though every village of any size is dominated by the stainless-steel tanks of the local cooperative, where most growers still take their grapes.\r\nThe most famous appellation of the southern Rh\u00f4ne is undoubtedly Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape. It is here that the blueprints were laid for the French system of appellation contr\u00f4l\u00e9e regulations, which delimit growing areas, authorize grape varieties, and more. Ch\u00e2teauneuf is also where the finest wines of the region are crafted, from as many as 13 different red and white grape varieties. (In order of prominence: Grenache, Syrah, Mourv\u00e8dre, Cinsault, Clairette Blanc, Bourboulenc, Roussanne, Picpoul, Counoise, Terret Noir, Vaccar\u00e8se, Muscardin and Picardan.)\r\nAt some point in every wine-loving traveler's life, a visit to Ch\u00e2teauneuf is essential. Every house seems to belong to a vigneron. The town and its castle surmount a small hill, and below the town\u2014on a plateau\u2014are the gnarled bush vines that grow out of a thick layer of large round cobbles that overlay the soil. These stones, called galets, are the secret behind the power and weight of Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape wines, as they reflect the heat of the summer sun back on to the ripening grapes.\r\nAs would stand to reason, the best wines are estate-bottled, rather than produced\r\nby n\u00e9gociants. Wines bottled within Ch\u00e2teauneuf carry the papal crest of the crossed keys of Saint Peter, which gives a guarantee of authenticity, even if it doesn't guarantee quality.\r\nCh\u00e2teau de Beaucastel is perhaps the best-known of all Ch\u00e2teauneuf producers, and one of the few to continue cultivating all of the permitted varieties. At the other extreme, Ch\u00e2teau Rayas produces an often-stunning Ch\u00e2teauneuf made entirely from Grenache. Most Ch\u00e2teauneuf estates, however, make blended wines that fall somewhere between these two examples, with the main components most often being Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourv\u00e8dre.\r\n\r\nIn high-quality years, like 1998, these are big wines with alcohol levels between 13.5 and 15 percent. But good producers like Le Vieux T\u00e9l\u00e9graphe or Ch\u00e2teau La Nerthe are able to extract fine, rich fruit to balance the alcohol. Warm, herb-laden, spicy tastes are characteristic of the best wines of the region. Despite their warmth and forwardness, these wines can often age well; Ch\u00e2teauneufs that improve for ten or more years are not uncommon.\r\nAfter one of the weaker vintages in recent memory (1997), Ch\u00e2teauneuf's producers rebounded in 1998. In tasting an array of '98 Ch\u00e2teauneufs, our tasting panel in New York walked away convinced that the current releases are of high quality across the board. While the red '98s from the aforementioned Beaucastel, La Nerthe, and Rayas were not available for tasting in time to be included in this arti-cle, our editors sampled a number of Ch\u00e2teauneuf wines and came away extremely fond of three in particular: Domaine Font de Michelle's reserve-level Cuv\u00e9e Etienne Gonnet, a soft yet dark wine of immense character; the Les C\u00e8dres bottling from the esteemed house of Jaboulet; and Lucien Barrot et Fils' Ch\u00e2teauneuf.\r\nGigondas is the other top commune of the region, but its wines, with a higher percentage of Grenache, tend to be less complex than those of its more illustrious neighbor. Still, offerings from the likes of Domaine du Cayron, Domaine Les Goubert, Domaine Saint-Gayan and Domaine Santa Duc can often be seriously beefy reds. Wines from here can age well, sometimes requiring five to ten years from vintage before reaching maturity.\r\nBrusset is another Gigondas property to keep an eye out for. Its immensely deep 1998 Les Hauts de Montmirail is so full of dark fruit and coffee flavors that it almost requires a fork and knife. It is one of the woodiest Rh\u00f4ne wines you are likely to encounter, yet the depth and quality of fruit handles the heavy dose of oak. Still another Gigondas that has been wowing the critics is Ch\u00e2teau de Saint Cosme from Louis Barruol. The aroma of this wine, resplendent with Asian spices and fine tobacco, is magnificent, and the soft texture begs you to indulge until the bottle is empty.\r\nThe village of Vacqueyras, just south of Gigondas, was granted its own AOC in 1990 (its wines were formerly labeled as C\u00f4tes-du-Rh\u00f4ne-Villages). Maybe it's just growing pains, but in general these wines have yet to equal those of nearby Gigondas or Ch\u00e2teauneuf. On the plus side, they're less expensive.\r\nClustered around Gigondas and Vacqueyras are several of the 16 villages whose wines carry the C\u00f4tes-du-Rh\u00f4ne-Villages appellation. These are often smaller-scaled versions of Ch\u00e2teauneuf or Gigondas, with some producers' increasing use of Syrah and Mourv\u00e8dre adding an elegance and complexity that is lacking in some of the heavily Grenache wines.\r\nMost of the wines that appear in the United States are blends labeled simply as C\u00f4tes-du-Rh\u00f4ne-Villages, but if you are visiting the area you should aim to stop in at least Cairanne, Rasteau, S\u00e9guret, Sablet and Beaumes-de-Venise, the last if only to sample the delectably sweet Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise. These villages face each other across the side valley of the Ouv\u00e8ze River as it flows southwest into the Rh\u00f4ne from Vaison-la-Romaine.\r\nThe rest of the C\u00f4tes-du-Rh\u00f4ne appellation is located on the western banks of the Rh\u00f4ne. It begins outside Avignon and spreads north up to where the Ardeche tributary enters the Rh\u00f4ne River. Along the way it encompasses two individual appellations: Tavel and Lirac.\r\nTavel producers claim to make the greatest ros\u00e9 in France; until recently that was a claim made more upon the past than the present. But now these Grenache-based wines, a perfect example of which is Ch\u00e2teau d'Aqueria, are looking up. As with all good ros\u00e9s, freshness is paramount, but character is not sacrificed. Some consumers have a hard time accepting that ros\u00e9s can be taken seriously. But those from Tavel are ros\u00e9s that are crying out to be reds. They have weight, fruit, richness and considerable complexity. They should be drunk within two years of harvest, and drunk chilled. But they can age. I recently had an eight-year-old Tavel and it was still in peak condition.\r\nMeanwhile, Lirac producers have moved away from ros\u00e9 production in favor of red wines, and the best combine a rich plummy character with spice notes.\r\nRounding things out are the wines labeled simply C\u00f4tes-du-Rh\u00f4ne. These country-style wines rarely cost more than $11 or $12 a bottle, but in good vintages they offer substantial amounts of jammy fruit and a suppleness that makes them just right with food. Perrin, Guigal, Chapoutier, Jaboulet and Delas Fr\u00e8res are among the big names making good C\u00f4tes-du-Rh\u00f4ne, and their '98s are particularly sturdy and satisfying.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nA MIX CASE OF TOP SOUTHERN RHONE WINES\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n90 Ch\u00e2teau La Nerthe 1998 Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape; $37\r\nThis is a classic Rh\u00f4ne white blend of Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne. Fairly international in style, it has the imprint of oak, but the ripe fruit handles it well. Lovely aromas and flavors of honey, spices, melon, and stone fruits mesh handsomely with the wood. Its distinctive flavors, attractive texture and Chardonnay-like weight should make it appealing to many wine drinkers not familiar with the region's delicious whites.\r\n\r\n88 Perrin 1999 R\u00e9serve C\u00f4tes-du-Rh\u00f4ne; $11\r\nManaging to be both serious and fun, this wine comes on like a mini Ch\u00e2teauneuf blanc, with its melon and herb aromas, good depth and peachy flavors. Sporting a pleasing texture\u2014it's full without being heavy\u2014and finishing long, dry and spicy, this is a great introduction to the blended white wines of the southern Rh\u00f4ne.\r\n\r\n87 Ch\u00e2teau d'Aqueria 1998 Tavel Ros\u00e9; $14\r\nA wine that justifies this town's immodest claim of making the finest ros\u00e9 in France. A blend of Grenache and Syrah, it blasts forth with the fullest raspberry flavor and bracing acidity. Not only does it taste great, it looks stately in its pyramid-shaped bottle, and the reddish-pink color is nothing if not attractive.\r\n\r\n93 Domaine Font de Michelle 1998 Cuv\u00e9e Etienne GonnetCh\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape; $33\r\nA full bouquet of cherry, lavender, coffee and vanilla. Intense dark-cherry fruit, with licorice and coffee accents marking the palate. The mouthfeel is full and plush, reflecting both the depth of fruit and the lavish use of oak. Displays full tannins with cocoa and black-fruit accents on the long finish. Although delicious in its youth, this will be better if cellared for three to five years, and it will keep a long time.\r\n\r\n92 Paul Jaboulet A\u00een\u00e9 1998 Les C\u00e8dres Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape; $38\r\nOffering a complex nose of stewed fruits, leather, cedar and violets, this seductive wine draws you in and envelops you in a handsome cocoon. There are waves of black fruit, chocolate, and leather in the mouth, accented by a cool minty element. Wonderful texture on the palate and full tannins on the long licorice and blackberry finish. A wickedly enticing wine.\r\n\r\n91 Lucien Barrot et Fils 1998 Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape; $27\r\nAn elegant wine with an elegant nose: soy, lavender and exotic spices open this extraordinarily well-poised offering. The fruit, acids and tannins\r\nare so perfectly balanced, one could almost overlook the graceful structure and velvety mouthfeel. Finishes with tea notes and very dark fruit flavors. Great now, but certainly better in two years.\r\n\r\n91 Brusset 1998 Les Hauts de Montmirail Gigondas; $40\r\nVery seductive, from the opening lush notes of black cherry and toasty oak through the full finish. There's great depth here, with blackberry and licorice flavors. The mouthfeel is dense; the finish full and long. The massive use of oak is almost over the top, but the excellent fruit sustains it. Best if cellared two to four years; for current drinking, let it breathe well.\r\n\r\n90 Louis Barruol 1998 Ch\u00e2teau de Saint Cosme Gigondas; $24\r\nBeautiful complexity, with a bouquet of tart berries, cinnamon, Asian spices, tobacco and an anise/mint element. Sweet-and-sour plum, clove, and rosemary flavors prevail on the palate, and the wine is elegantly strung on a lighter frame than the Brusset. Closes with lots of dark-fruit, herb, cocoa, and licorice nuances.\r\n\r\n89 Perrin 1998 R\u00e9serve C\u00f4tes-du-Rh\u00f4ne; $10\r\nThis inky wine is full of jammy aromas of blueberries and black plums. Dark berry, herb and plum flavors follow on the supple palate. The finish is long and fairly dense, with black fruit, leathery elements and full, even tannins. This great value is immensely enjoyable now, yet should improve over the next one to three years.\r\n\r\n88 Ch\u00e2teau de S\u00e9gri\u00e8s 1998 Cuv\u00e9e R\u00e9serv\u00e9e Lirac; $11\r\nA Grenache-heavy wine with a bold and appealing nose of cherries. The upfront fruit is overlaid by a dusty, earthy streak that adds depth. Mild tannins that are velvety soft don't interfere with anything. A solid quaffer to go along with grilled meats.\r\n\r\n88 Paul Jaboulet A\u00een\u00e9 1998 Parall\u00e8le "45" C\u00f4tes-du-Rh\u00f4ne; $9\r\nInky, with deep fruit and a cinnamon note, this rich, even lush wine marries deep raspberry and cherry fruit with meaty Syrah notes and plenty of oak. From its appealing nose to its softly tannic finish, it is handsomely constructed. A wine that aims to please now and succeeds.\r\n\r\n87 M. Chapoutier 1998 Belleruche C\u00f4tes-du-Rh\u00f4ne; $11\r\nA deeply colored blend featuring scents of leather, black tea, animale, and mixed berries. A bit more tannic than others, but that just makes it all the better with a hamburger. A wine that conveys the quality of the vintage.