In Germany, where wine preferences have long been swinging dry and drier still, the market is dominated by trocken, or dry wines made from Riesling, Pinot Noir (known as Sp\u00e4tburgunder), Pinot Gris (or Grauburgunder) and more. Among the very best are dry wines classified as Grosses\u202fGew\u00e4chs, or \u201cgreat growths,\u201d GG for short.\r\n\r\nThey represent standout dry expressions of exemplary single vineyards known as Grosse Lage, Germany\u2019s version of the grand cru. These are recognized for historically producing wines of distinction.\r\n\r\nGG wines are produced in each of Germany\u2019s 13 wine regions. They must contain no more than nine grams per liter of residual sugar, adhere to strict quality and production guidelines and utilize only specific grape varieties classic to each region.\r\n\r\nThe modern-day GG classification was codified in 2002 by the Verband Deutscher Pr\u00e4dikatsweing\u00fcter (VDP), an exclusive organization of German winegrowers. The VDP system is distinct from the German pr\u00e4dikat that classifies wine into categories like kabinett, sp\u00e4tlese or auslese, based on the ripeness of grapes at harvest.\r\n\r\nThe VDP classification continues to evolve, and its trademarked VDP.GROSSES GEW\u00c4CHS nomenclature extends only to members. However, winemakers in non-VDP estates throughout Germany are increasingly emulating classification systems for flagship dry wines based on vineyard designations, as well.\r\n\r\nRead on to discover just six of Germany\u2019s top regions for GG bottlings.\r\n\r\n\r\nThe Rheingau\r\nThe VDP\u2019s GG framework was formed by a coalition of enterprising Rheingau winegrowers known as the Charta. In the 1980s, the Charta advocated a regionwide focus on high-quality, dry Riesling production and the resurrection of historic vineyard classifications that link wine quality with provenance, not sugar levels. At the top of this classification were the Erstes Gew\u00e4chs, which are comparable to premier cru, or first-growth, vineyards.\r\n\r\nMany Rheingau producers labeled dry Riesling from top vineyards as Erstes Gew\u00e4chs, in keeping with the Charta, until 2012, when the classification was replaced with Grosses Gew\u00e4chs.\r\n\r\nSince 2018, non-VDP winegrowers have incorporated the Rheingau Grosses Gew\u00e4chs (RGG) designation for flagship dry, single-vineyard wines. Both the RGG and VDP.GROSSES GEW\u00c4CHS regulations permit Riesling and Sp\u00e4tburgunder GGs.\r\n\r\nAt Schloss Johannisberg, late-harvest dry Rieslings, or sp\u00e4tlese trocken, were produced long before GG existed, according to its estate manager, Stefan Doktor. Fermented dry to seven or eight grams per liter of residual sugar, they\u2019re an evolutionary predecessor to the estate\u2019s GG Silberlack, which debuted in 2005.\r\n\r\nA svelte, crystalline expression of the estate\u2019s monopol vineyard, the GG Silberlack has inched bone dry to less than three grams per liter of residual sugar in recent years.\r\n\r\nHistorically, Doktor says, when acidity levels were higher, the resulting wines were made sweeter in the Rheingau to maintain balance. Today, with increasingly warmer climates, \u201cthe acidity of grapes has changed,\u201d he says. \u201cYou can produce wines that are drier and drier, but still balanced.\u201d\r\n\r\nAmong the region\u2019s iconic dry-style wines from non-VDP producers are Georg Breuer\u2019s textured monopol Rieslings, Eva Fricke\u2019s vibrant single-vineyard dry Riesling and J.B. Becker\u2019s sinewy sp\u00e4tlese trocken Riesling and Sp\u00e4tburgunder.\r\nWines to Try\r\nAugust Kesseler 2016 H\u00f6llenberg Pinot Noir GG Grosse Lage; $203, 96 points. Hints of violet, succulent black cherries and freshly dug beetroot perfume this complex, intensely concentrated Pinot Noir. It's rich and voluptuously textured but balanced by crisp red-currant acidity and fine feathery tannins. Appealing now for its opulent fruit and heady spice, but time in the cellar should lend even more complexity and nuance. Vineyard Brands.\r\n\r\nDomdechant Werner 2018 Kirchenst\u00fcck Riesling GG Trocken; $55, 94 points. Wafting of yellow peaches, apricot and spice, this producer's 2018 Kirchenst\u00fcck is substantially more open and yielding than it's\u00a0 also-excellent 2017 bottling. Sleek and steely but luscious and peachy, too, it's a racy dry Riesling that's thrilling now but likely to be better from 2022. Concentrated and piercing, it should improve through 2035 and hold further still. Miller Squared Inc. Editors\u2019 Choice.\r\nRheinhessen\r\nIn recent years, German wine lovers, particularly Millennials or members of Gen-Z, most likely associate Rheinhessen with its cult-status dry wines and rock-star winemakers like Klaus Peter Keller or Phillip Wittmann. Until the turn of the 21st century, however, Rheinhessen was best known as Germany\u2019s heartland for inexpensive, sweet bulk wines.\r\n\r\nAccording to Wittmann, there is a provenance of great vineyards as well as \u201ca long history of making dry wines here well before Liebfraumilch.\u201d His Grosse Lage vineyards, Morstein and Aulerde, have documented winemaking histories as far back as 1282 and 1380, respectively.\r\n\r\nThis drive to retell Rheinhessen\u2019s story as one of quality and provenance has made it one of Germany\u2019s most riveting wine regions. It\u2019s a hot bed of highly sought-after GGs and similarly produced single-vineyard-designated dry wines.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nRheinhessen\u2019s groundbreaking \u201990s era association of young winemakers, Message in a Bottle, was started by Keller, Wittmann and other regional luminaries. It has grown up to become the Maxime Herkunft Rheinhessen, which translates to Maximum Origin Rheinhessen. Founded in 2017, this group set out to organize its members according to the VDP\u2019s origin-based classification framework, even if they\u2019re not members of the VDP.\r\n\r\nGG expressions of Riesling from producers like Keller and Wittmann, as well as the dry, single-vineyard equivalents from non-VDP producers like Jochen Dreissigacker, are all majestic, exceptionally ageworthy wines. Frequently, they\u2019re compared to the greatest white Burgundies in the world.\r\n\r\nThe VDP permits only the production of GG bottlings from Riesling and Sp\u00e4tburgunder.\r\nWines to Try\r\nGunderlock 2016 Pettenthal Riesling GG Trocken; $75, 95 points. Ripe yellow-apple and quince flavors fall in lavish, creamy waves on the palate of this full-bodied Riesling. Dry and luscious in style, it's peppered by delicate hints of smoke and exotic spice and spine-tingling tangerine acidity. An elegant wine already but it should hit its stride by 2025 and hold further. David Bowler Wine. Cellar Selection.\r\n\r\nWittmann 2017 Morstein Riesling GG Grosse Lage; $92, 95 points. Brisk lemon and white grapefruit aromas are accented by smoke and crushed mineral in this stately dry Riesling. Grapefruit and apple flavors fill the palate in silky, supple waves, but piercing acidity and murmurs of astringency lend structure and vibrancy. It is a stunning wine now, but is likely to hold well through 2030. Loosen Bros. USA. Editors\u2019 Choice.\r\n\r\nWagner-Stempel 2017 Heerkretz Riesling Trocken GG Gold Cap; $69, 94 points. Intense aromas of smoke and earth are gradually replaced by crisp pear and apple notes that intensify from nose to palate. It's dry and full bodied, with concentrated orchard-fruit flavors moderated by dried herbs and sun-dried hay. It's a complex wine that balances savory and fruity beautifully but needs some time to open. Hold till 2022; it should improve through 2030 and beyond. The German Wine Collective. Cellar Selection.\r\n\r\n\r\nPfalz\r\nBlessed with ample sunshine and a warm, dry Mediterranean climate, the Pfalz is a focal point for Germany\u2019s most powerful, sun-drenched GGs. While Riesling is the dominant variety here, the VDP also permits GG Sp\u00e4tburgunder and Weissburgunder.\r\n\r\nThe Pfalz has a long, noble history of exemplary dry winemaking. Its storied Kirchenst\u00fcck vineyard is widely considered the region\u2019s greatest. It consistently produces some of the world\u2019s greatest dry white wines.\r\n\r\nLike Rheinhessen, however, production in the Pfalz was dominated by high-volume, mass-market sweet wines in the decades after World War II. In recent decades, however, historic icons of the northern Pfalz, like the three \u201cB\u2019s\u201d of Geheimer Rat Dr. von\u202fBassermann-Jordan, Dr. B\u00fcrklin-Wolf and Reichsrat von Buhl, seem to have awoken from years of listlessness.\r\n\r\nIn 1991, upon taking the reins at her family estate, Bettina B\u00fcrklin-von Guradze, owner of Dr. B\u00fcrklin-Wolf, ignited a revolution when she shifted focus to dry wines and established meticulous quality guidelines.\r\n\r\nAs early as 1994, B\u00fcrklin-von Guradze began to designate dry wines from flagship single-vineyards as grand cru, or GC, in accordance to vineyard classifications established in 1828 by the Bavarian royal property assessment. The vineyard classifications and quality pyramid that she installed were forerunners to the Pfalz VDP\u2019s own quality classification system.\r\n\r\nS\u00fcdpfalz, in the south, is where much of the region\u2019s bulk-wine production was centralized. There, pioneering producers like \u00d6konomierat Rebholz and Friedrich Becker not only revolutionized the production of dry, terroir-driven, single-vineyard Riesling and Sp\u00e4tburgunder, but they elevated Weissburgunder (also known as Pinot Blanc) to heights unseen almost anywhere in the world.\r\n\r\nMany non-VDP producers in the Pfalz, particularly Markus Schneider and Odinstal, also produce stunning examples of dry, single-vineyard wines.\r\nWines to Try\r\n\u00d6konomierat Rebholz 2017 Im Sonnenschein Weisser Burgunder GG ; $103, 95 points. Pinot Blanc is typically a shy white grape, but this powerful, voluptuously textured wine offers intensely concentrated apricot and white peach flavors marked by whiffs of blossom and lime perfume. It's decadent but balanced neatly with zesty acidity and a reverberating mineral tone. Delicious already but should improve through 2037. The German Wine Collective.\r\n\r\nPfeffingen 2017 Weilberg Riesling GG Trocken Gold Cap; $56, 94 points. The nose here is subdued suggesting barely a whiff of crushed stone, but there's an abundance of zesty lemon, tangerine and grapefruit on the palate. Dry and full bodied, it's a dense, richly textured wine with a firm, steely finish. Tasted at the end of 2019, it's still quite closed. Hold till 2023, it should gain even more breadth through 2030. The German Wine Collective. Cellar Selection.\r\n\r\nVon Buhl 2017 Forster Pechstein Riesling GG; $68, 93 points. Soft, luscious yellow peach and pear are balanced pertly by fresh grapefruit acidity and a dusty mineral edge here. While dry in style, it's a plump, silken sip accented by hints of bramble and sweet spice that linger on the finish. Enjoy now through 2035. The German Wine Collective.\r\nBaden\r\nBaden, Germany\u2019s sun-kissed southernmost wine region, boasts a remarkable diversity of GG grape varieties of Burgundian heritage. The region is most known for Sp\u00e4tburgunder, Weissburgunder and Grauburgunder, but it also produces GG Riesling, Chardonnay and Lemberger.\r\n\r\nAccording to Fritz Keller, owner of Franz Keller, \u201cBurgundy is the role model for our wines,\u201d both for its emphasis on fully dry Pinot wines, but also site specificity. \u201cI want to bring the character of each vineyard into the glass,\u201d he says.\r\n\r\nSp\u00e4tburgunder is the most planted grape in Baden, and its flagship GG expressions range from muscular wines from the volcanic terraces of the Kaiserstuhl to transcendent, fruity wines from the cooler limestone slopes of the Breisgau. Oft-underrated varieties like Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder are grown with unusual reverence.\r\n\r\nKeller\u2019s GG Schlossberg Grauburgunder, sourced from 75-year-old vines, clocks in at a dainty 12.5% alcohol by volume (abv), but it offers a complexity and ageworthiness not often found in commercially ubiquitous Pinot Grigio.\r\n\r\n\u201cPop music is nice,\u201d says Keller. \u201cIt\u2019s pleasant to listen to for about two minutes, but afterwards, can be forgettable. In terms of music, this is jazz.\u201d\r\n\r\nFermented in oak barrels, \u201cthese are wines that age beautifully, gaining minerality with age and holding up well to richer cuisine,\u201d he says.\r\n\r\nBaden\u2019s most ambitious GGs have been historically criticized for intense extraction and oak embellishments, but there\u2019s a clear generational shift bringing youthful vitality. As sons and daughters of Baden\u2019s old guard like Keller, Bernhard Huber and others return from studies in Burgundy and beyond, they\u2019ve infused a thrilling transparency and purity into the region\u2019s flagship dry wines.\r\nWines to Try\r\nFranz Keller 2016 Enselberg Jechtingen Sp\u00e4tburgunder GG; $60, 95 points. Hints of toast and vanilla mingle into smoke and ash in this ripe and richly concentrated Pinot Noir sourced from volcanic soils. Blackberry and black cherry flavors are luscious but elegantly balanced with firm acidity and an elegant herbal edge. It's welcoming now for its fresh fruit and fine-grained tannins but should improve further through 2030. Delicato Family Wines. Cellar Selection.\r\n\r\nSalwey 2015 Oberrotweiler Eichberg Pinot Gris GG; $53, 94 points. Layers of smoke and spice accent vibrant lemon, pear and apple in this dry but lusciously textured Pinot Gris. Plumpness on the palate is balanced by firm hits of steel and mineral along with a savory touch of white mushroom. It's an intense, structured wine that should improve well through 2030. The German Wine Collective.\r\nFranken\r\nIt\u2019s ironic that Franken, one of Germany\u2019s most eminent producers of predominantly dry, terroir-transparent wines, is one of its least known. The region excels in svelte wines that are often powerfully mineral. Most loved is Franken\u2019s soft-edged, luminous Silvaner, but Riesling, Sp\u00e4tburgunder and Weissburgunder round out the region\u2019s four recognized GG varieties.\r\n\r\nGreat, dry wines have been a part of Franken\u2019s history long before the rise of the GGs, says Andrea Wirsching, managing director of Hans Wirsching. While much of Germany embraced cheap, cheerful sweet wines, Franconians held to their Fr\u00e4nkische-trocken, or Franconian dry wines, an informal moniker for wines with a maximum residual sugar level of four grams per liter.\r\n\r\nAt Hans Wirsching, flagship single-vineyard dry wines labeled sp\u00e4tlese trocken were produced as early as the 1980s. They\u2019ve evolved, Wirsching says, as a new generation of highly educated, well-traveled winemakers in the 1990s prompted a \u201crenaissance of great, dry single-vineyard wines.\u201d\r\n\r\nAs throughout Germany, the effects of climate change are prompting evolution in Franken.\r\n\r\n\u201cA good GG should have an alcohol level of between 12.5% and 13.5%,\u201d says Wirsching. With current climates, however, \u201cif we worked our vineyards as we did in the early 2000s, they would be 15\u201316% abv. We want our GGs to be concentrated and complex,\u201d but above all else, elegant.\r\n\r\n\u201cWith too much alcohol, we\u2019re in danger of losing that elegance,\u201d she says.\r\n\r\nTo preserve the freshness, minerality and perfume so classic to the region\u2019s dry wines, many of Franken\u2019s winegrowers are seeking out cooler sites and new vineyard management techniques to slow sugar accumulation in grapes.\r\nWines to Try\r\nRudolf F\u00fcrst 2016 Hundsr\u00fcck Sp\u00e4tburgunder GG; $206, 96 points. This is a vibrant, concentrated Pinot Noir that reverberates with pristine black currant and graphite. Toasted wood and dried herb tones are a prominent companion to primary black fruit now but should meld over the next few years. The finish is long and lean, ending on fine firm tannins\u2014a stunner that should improve for decades to come. Cellar Selection.\r\n\r\nSchmitt\u2019s Kinder 2017 Randersackerer Pf\u00fclben Riesling GG Grosse Lage Trocken; $67, 95 points. Delicate notes of yellow peach and jellied quince gain intensity from nose to palate here, edged by steel and a bracing acidic backbone. Full bodied and creamy on the midpalate, it's a deeply satisfying, pristinely fruity wine that should gain mineral complexities with time. Lovely already but it should improve through 2030. Editors\u2019 Choice.\r\n\r\nHans Wirsching 2016 Iph\u00f6fer Julius-Echter-Berg Silvaner GG Trocken Gold Cap; $36, 94 points. While juicy and richly textured, there's plenty of zip and vibe in this dry, deeply satisfying white. Crisp pear and green plum flavors are concentrated and fresh, finishing on zesty notes of lemon peel and crushed stone. Drinks beautifully now, but it's concentrated enough to improve through 2040 and will likely hold much longer. The German Wine Collective.\r\n\r\n\r\nThe Mosel\r\nThe incomparable finesse and electric edge of the Mosel\u2019s noble sweet Rieslings link them inextricably to the identity of the region\u2014so much so that legendary winegrowers like J.J. Pr\u00fcm and Egon M\u00fcller do not produce any dry wines whatsoever.\r\n\r\nYet, the Mosel produces Rieslings in an unparalleled stylistic range. In recent years, the region is increasingly lauded for dry, full-bodied and steely GG-style wines made exclusively from Riesling.\r\n\r\nAccording to Ernst Loosen, owner of the Dr. Loosen estate, dry Mosel Riesling is nothing new.\r\n\r\n\u201cOn my father\u2019s side, wines were always produced in a dry style,\u201d he says. In 2008, after tasting a 50-year-old Riesling produced by his great-grandfather, Loosen was gobsmacked.\r\n\r\n\u201cWe all know that our wines with residual sugar have an enormous potential to age, but I was not aware that dry Rieslings from the Mosel could also age so beautifully for more than 50 years,\u201d he says.\r\n\r\nThat year, Loosen introduced a series of GG Rieslings modeled after those of his ancestors. He sourced grapes from ungrafted, century-old vines in Grosse Lage vineyards and vinified them slowly with natural yeast in old, traditional barrels.\r\n\r\nRaimund Pr\u00fcm, owner of S.A. Pr\u00fcm, suggests that dry Rieslings of exceptional provenance have a transparency of origin.\r\n\r\n\u201cYou can really taste the vineyard in a GG,\u201d he says. \u201cYou can easily detect the blue slate or the red slate in a way that you can\u2019t with sweeter styles of Riesling.\u201d\r\n\r\nMany Mosel winegrowers like Markus Molitor, Immich-Batterieberg or Sybille Kuntz are not VDP members, but they also produce spectacular dry wines from historically recognized sites.\r\nWines to Try\r\nDr. Loosen 2017 \u00dcrziger W\u00fcrzgarten Dry Riesling GG Alte Reben; $54, 95 points. Hints of smoke, struck flint and spice accent this gorgeously honeyed, intensely concentrated dry Riesling. Tangerine, quince and lemon flavors are rich and reverberating, edged by thrilling lime acidity and long, earthen finish. Fantastic already but it should gain complexity through 2030 and likely longer. \u00a0Loosen Bros. USA. Editors\u2019 Choice.\r\n\r\nS.A. Pr\u00fcm 217 Graacher Dompropst GG Dry Riesling; $72, 92 points. Pristine lemon, apple and quince are tart and vital in this filigreed dry Riesling. It's restrained and lean in its youth and veiled by slate and smoke, but spine-tingling lime acidity and a deep core of citrus flavors suggest a long future ahead. Best enjoyed from 2022\u20132035. Taub Family Selections.\u00a0Cellar Selection.